The Ozark Highlands Trail from Arbaugh to Morgan Fields (27-miles)

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Wolf Ridge overlook

Sometimes life gets complicated and backpacking moves to the back burner. There’s plenty to fill the space with trail maintenance, day hiking, finding new trails, playing music, and family obligations. All of these things are important and worthy of attention, but for me to be my best self for others, it’s essential to get out there for a few nights on the trails when possible. 

A couple of longtime friends and I planned a trip but temperatures for the week we had in mind were going to be into the single digits so we decided that might not be a good plan for our first backpacking trip of the winter. Our good friend, Bob, had a scheduling conflict by the time temperatures returned to normal, so it was just Kerry and me for this one.

I spent the night before at Redding Campground, so I’d have a short drive up Morgan Mt. Road on Tuesday when we started out. There was only one other camper there on the other side of the campground, so it felt like I had the place to myself. This is a great little campground without any hookups. There’s a connecting trail to Redding Loop and Spy Rock Spur. 

stove

I fixed a REAL breakfast Tuesday morning with a new stove. I like this stove! It’s like being in a kitchen when compared to my backpacking Esbit Cube stove. 

Esbit stove
Esbit stove and wind shield

We looked at several options. We settled on Arbaugh Trailhead north of Oark hiking west to Morgan Fields for a total of 27 miles. The first 3 miles are Kerry’s adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Since he had family obligations in the fall, a group of his friends gave his section some attention. I wanted him to see the good work we’d done. Kerry has hiked that section 48 times or more over the years between leading hikes and maintaining. But we both agree, it never gets old. 

Kerry looking down into Lynn Hollow and enjoying a well maintained trail.

The trail descends past a new low impact campsite and then to Lynn Hollow crossing. This whole area is beautiful, especially when water is flowing as it was when we walked through. If you ever need a short over-nighter or shakedown trip, camping here and exploring the Lynn Hollow area would be a good option. 

Lunch spot close to MM66

We hiked 11 miles to the west and camped at MM59, Wolf Ridge. This is a popular spot with plenty of tent sites, a well-established fire ring and great view. 

Filtering water at Wolf Ridge

The small stream close by has never been dry, even during the driest of falls. 

Wednesday, we hiked 9 miles and camped at Indian Creek. While passing through the Marinoni Scenic Area, we met the only other backpacker we’d see over our three-days on the trail. 

On Thursday, we hiked seven miles. We were feeling the climbs, even slight, but the open woods and running streams were a pleasure every step of the way.

Our three-days on the trail ended at Morgan Fields Trailhead. We were tired but already looking forward to our next walk on the Ozark Highlands Trail. 

Climbing Clouds in New Mexico

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There’s nothing like summer heat and humidity in the Ozarks to prompt you to seek higher elevations. Our first thoughts were the Santa Fe area because we’ve visited the area before and enjoyed it, but finding a book that had belonged to my grandfather caused us to look elsewhere.

The Cloud-Climbing Railroad, by Dorothy Jensen Neal and illustrated by Bob Staggs, told the story of Cloudcroft, a small mountain town to the northeast of Alamogordo, New Mexico. The building of a railroad that climbed 4,200 feet from Alamogordo to Cloudcroft at an elevation of 8600 feet made the town possible.

This book was published in 1966 and my uncle, Reed Warnock, presented it to my grandfather in August of 1967. In addition to the note in the front, Reed wrote in the margins about people mentioned in the book he knew from work or socially. I thought those notes must have been of great interest to my grandfather, especially since Reed was so far from Smackover, their hometown in south Arkansas. Reed’s notes similar to the following were sprinkled throughout the book.

Reed was my father’s oldest brother. I never knew him well, but from the few times I was around him I thought he was engaging and intelligent. I was fascinated by the fact that he designed aircraft antennas and worked close to a place called White Sands. A few years ago while going through family photographs, I found this photo of my father (L) sitting with Reed (R) in the gypsum sand.

Becca saw my interest as I read The Cloud-Climbing Railroad. She asked if we might want to visit that area and our travel plans were hatched.

We camped two nights at Manzano Mountain, a stop in our travels south from I-40 toward Alamogordo, New Mexico. We were glad no one was camped on either side of us because the sites were close together.

Some nice trails circle through the campground and loop out into the woods. Between hiking, mountain biking, readings, and plucking the guitar, we stayed busy. The afternoons were warm so we were pleased to have the awning to place over our table.

The campground had pit toilets but no showers so this was our first outing with the portable shower. The storage tank held enough water for the two of us and it was warm after being left in the sun for a few hours. We’ll be using this again in the future.

Those who backpack will appreciate what a treat it is to have a gas stove and plenty of groceries without worrying about weight. I had oatmeal, eggs, spam, bagels, and coffee for breakfast. Becca planned great meals for lunch and and dinner the two days we camped here.

On our way toward Alamogordo we spent some time at Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument. We could have easily stayed longer and hope to return to visit other missions in New Mexico.

After a long drive, we arrived in Alamogordo and found a nice hotel. We’ve learned that a couple of nights camping with a hotel night afterward makes for happy travelers. This rule doesn’t apply to my backpacking trips but works great for family travel.

The next morning we drove to White Sands National Park which exceeded our expectations. The visitor center was nice and the experience of walking trails in the park will linger in our memories for years.

I felt close to my father and Uncle Reed when I sat down in the gypsum sand as they had done around fifty years before. Thank you Becca for the photo.

The drive from Alamogordo to the small mountain town of Cloudcroft was a pleasure. There are several pullouts along the way where you can view the historic train tracks and trestles no longer in use.

The Pines Campground was our favorite on this trip and Big Daddy’s Diner in Cloudcroft was a hit. We ate there our first day on the mountain and at least a couple more times before we left. We’d like to return to The Pines in the future. The host kept things clean and there’s a hiking/biking trail nearby. I enjoyed riding my bike into the town of Cloudcroft as well as on the trails. From one trail overlook you could see a historic train trestle and White Sands in the distance.

Our last night in Cloudcroft was spent at The Lodge at Cloundcroft which was mentioned by my Uncle Reed in some of his book margin notes. It was quite elegant situated right next to the highest elevation golf course in the U.S. Becca and I enjoyed a nice meal to celebrate our anniversary.

We’re looking forward to more New Mexico trips in the future. There’s so much to explore!

The Perfect Ouachita Trail Resupply (Plus Clay and Crystals)

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Sunrise at Mountain Thyme B&B

From the Hwy 7 Trailhead on the Ouachita Trail, it’s a short two-mile road walk south to one of my treasured places in the Ouachitas, Mountain Thyme Bed & Breakfast. If you take the Hunts Loop trail closest to the highway, it comes out at Iron Springs Recreation Area (picnic area) and is only a mile walk from there.

Photo of Iron Springs in the 1960s by Reese Kennedy
Iron Springs on an early morning winter walk

Mike and Rhonda are the ultimate B&B hosts so if you’re looking for a place to resupply, renew, and refurbish, plan on spending a couple of nights. After a full zero day you’ll start your next section with a gourmet breakfast.

The Mike & Rhonda figurines were gifts from a guest.

During your time in the area take the short drive south on Hwy 7 to Fox Pass Pottery. It’s a perfect spot to spend some recuperating time. Jim and Barbara Larkin are true artists in clay and their shop is a highlight stop in the Hot Springs area. Jim is a hiker and understands pack weight so if you find something you can’t pass up, he’ll ship purchases directly to your home. 

A few years back, Jim Larkin noticed my post about John Allen Adams, the owner of a bookstore in Arkadelphia, AR. Jim and I both worked at Adam’s Book Store but a couple of years apart. It was nice to make the connection and share the positive influence John had on us both during our college days. It was also nice to spend time with Jim and Barbara Larkin at Fox Pass touring their shop and kilns.

One of my Fox Pass mugs ready for tea
Coleman Crystal Mine from the edge of the abyss

On your way back to Mountain Thyme, stop off at Coleman Crystal Mine, a fully operational crystal mine where you can dig on your own, ride a zip line, or shop for “pre-dug” and cleaned crystals.

Ozark Highlands Trail: Arbaugh to Lick Branch

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Our “weather shopping” continued and resulted in a great over-nighter on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) from Arbaugh Trailhead to Lick Branch (east to west).

Recent rains provided us with good water levels at all creeks and even some drainages that are often dry. Bob counted ten times we had light sleet during the first day and evening, but never enough to justify pulling out the rain gear.

The trail provides nice rocks for sitting in the shadow of bluffs and water features.

Parker found an old pot and grill left by previous users of the area. True to our desire to leave no trace, he packed the items out to the next road crossing. He returned following the hike to carry out this and other trash we collected.

To all who use the Ozarks, please pack out what you pack in. Leaving a place better than you find it is part of the fun in backpacking.

A highlight of this trip is the vista you’ll pass between mile 61 and 60.

Conversation and a good meal was made even more enjoyable by the sunset.

When we arrived at the Wolf Ridge campsite, it was occupied by a group of nice folks from Siloam Springs, AR. We found open spots for camping uphill away from the trail so both groups had some space. An old fire ring was close to our tents but we usually opted not to use it and turned in soon after dark.

Gathering water is always a pleasure at the small stream that crosses the trail just beyond the campsite. Parker mentioned that he’d seen water in it when he did a summer day hike through the area, so I’d guess it always has water.

Temperatures hovered close to freezing. Kerry found some ice in a water bottle the next morning. After coffee, we hit the trail.

Crossing the Little Mulberry

The whole last mile of this hike is a visual treat as you pass large boulders before crossing Lick Branch.

We stopped at Oark General Store for a burger after the hike. The wood burning stove and heat of the Angry Hornet Burger warmed us up for the drive home. Bob said as we completed the hike, “This goes in the books as another great outing on the OHT!

Ouachita Trail: Hwy 71 to Queen Wilhelmina State Park

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It’s good to be back in the saddle again after a too-long break. Following hernia surgery, I was limited to day hiking for six weeks, so I did a lot of day hiking which helped speed my recovery. Once backpacking was back on my menu, I put some books in my bear canister for weight and walked the Lake Alma Trail with a loaded pack for a couple of weeks.

After some of the climbs on this section of the Ouachita Trail I was glad I did that preparation work. We had a great time!

After recent rains the creeks were all running clean so water wasn’t a challenge as it sometimes is on the Ouachita Trail.

Now that we’re retired, we’ve gotten in the habit of “weather shopping” and heading out during good weather windows. I felt guilty recently and purposely suited up and carried my pack on a rainy day hike just to stay in practice since hiking in rain adds a new set of challenges. On this trip we were expecting cold temperatures at night, but we never dipped below freezing.

Black Fork Mountain Shelter

Kerry packed out some empty plastic water jugs left in the area by previous hikers.

We enjoyed hearing trains and owls during the night. We crossed these railroad tracks close to Hwy 270 as we hiked west. Bob is in the distance stepping across the rails.

As we approached Queen Wilhelmina Lodge, I stopped to enjoy the view. I found myself walking slowly and wishing the trip wouldn’t end. This was a good time to give a respectful nod to the Ouachita Mountains and pause in thanksgiving for the beauty of creation, good friends, and good health. We had a great time on the Ouachita Trail!

Lover's Leap overlook

Bolo Knife Brought Back to Life

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I found this model 1917 bolo knife in the bottom of my father’s toolbox. It was manufactured in 1918 in Philadelphia, PA. The before picture shows the knife as it was when I found it. The rough-hewn wooden handle made me think of my grandfather, but I can’t be sure of how it came down through the family. It’s my understanding that my grandfather, Arch Warnock, was in the Army at some point. Another possibility is that my father found it abandoned in an old apartment house he once owned.

I debated what to do with this knife and appreciate Tom Wing’s thoughts about preserving its history. He is a professor at the University of Arkansas in Fort Smith and my go-to person on anything history related.

Through a trail friend (and artist) Gary Alexander, I learned about Steve Thompson and asked him about the possibilities of reclaiming this knife as a useful tool again. As you can see by comparing the before and after photos, he does great work! 

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Since the blade was badly pitted and rusted, he cleaned and adjusted the blade and edge. He made a new handle of curly maple. The new pommel (end piece) is made from mild steel and soldered on. The 1917 sheath was long gone so Steve made a beautiful leather sheath to protect the knife. 

The 1917 model knife was originally used in World War I. While reading, I came across the story of Henry Johnson. He was a member of the Harlem Hell Fighters, an all-black regiment. While in France, Johnson’s position was attacked by as many as 36 armed German soldiers. The soldier with Johnson was killed leaving Johnson alone to defend the French position. Henry Johnson, using his rifle, gunstock, and a 1917 bolo knife, drove the Germans into retreat killing several. He sustained severe injuries in the fight but survived. The French Army gave Johnson special recognition and awards. He received no awards from the US Army during his lifetime. He died in poverty in 1929. On May 14, 2015, it was announced that Johnson would receive the Medal of Honor posthumously.

I originally thought I might use this knife for trail maintenance. Clearing brush was one of its uses in the military and its quarter inch thick blade makes this a good application. Once I saw Steve’s work, I knew it would probably not be carried in the woods. I’ll keep it nice and dry as something to be passed down in the family.

Some have asked if I’ll carry this knife when backpacking. Below is my answer. The Swiss Army knife is what I carry when counting pack weight ounces. Bears have nothing to fear from me.

If the Shoe Fits

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The same shoe, new on the left and used on the right.

What’s the best shoe? This question has been with me since I began hiking. Often, what is meant is, “what brand do you recommend?” I appreciate the person’s respect for my opinion and experience, but the answer I give is, “Wear the shoe that fits your feet.” To that I would add, “Wear the type of shoe that works for the type of hiking you’re doing” and “Wear as light a shoe as you can get away with.”

Used shoe on the left and new (but already dusty from a trail testing) on the right.

I also recommend that if you find a shoe that works, purchase a second pair. I began practicing this when I used trail running shoes for backpacking. I still use trail runners sometimes but like a little water resistance and additional support of a light hiking shoe.

Recently I decided to get a second pair of the Keens as pictured here. This shouldn’t be taken as a recommendation that you buy Keens. I feel no brand loyalty where shoes are concerned. Keen has a wide toe box which works well for me.

Avoid the stink!

If your shoes get wet, put them under a fan overnight and dry them thoroughly when you get home. I have a powerful blower just for this purpose. Occasionally (as in about every six months) I’ll wash my hiking shoes in warm water and detergent, then put them under the blower overnight. I do it out of respect for the noses of others on the trail.

Sweet smelling shoes after drying overnight.

Some Things Never Get Old

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Hiker-dog and I walked the Lake Alma Trail after a good rain to see how McWater Falls was rolling. We weren’t disappointed. We’re never disappointed when walking this trail. It’s special in all seasons, but be sure to check for ticks after walking it this time of year.

McWater Falls are named after Harry McWater who had the vision for a trail around Lake Alma.

McWater Falls from above

New Book, Gift From the Ozarks

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I’ve been remiss in posting lately, but my excuse is the new book, Gift From the Ozarks. In this little full color book I tell a story that was too good not to share. This book is available at Chapters on Main in Van Buren and Bookish in Fort Smith or you can order it from Amazon.

I’m pleased to share this story so grab a copy of Gift From the Ozarks.

OHT Ozone to Fort Douglas

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Cedar Creek cascade above the pool

The plan was to spend two nights on the Ozark Highlands Trail. After planting shuttle vehicles, we entered from Ozone traveling eastbound. We hiked about four miles and camped close to Little Piney Creek. On day 2, we hiked approximately eight miles and camped at the Cedar Creek pool.

With the limited length of daylight during winter, dinners came early. Backpacking makes you realize how nice it is to read a while and then sleep for around nine hours before rising and walking through the next day. Such a simple agenda is refreshing!

Morning sun on the Little Piney River
Beaver Slide Falls (Slot Rock) is a nice side trip up Lick Creek
Kerry and Bob signing in and glancing at the map.
Bear Skull Falls
There is spacious camping not far from the Cedar Creek pool

Haw Creek Falls is a nice stop along the trail. No one was using the Haw Creek Campground. This is a neat place with picnic tables and fire rings at each site. There are pit toilets too!

Our last day was about seven miles to the Fort Douglas Trailhead, passing through some beautiful country. I caught myself wanting to make the trail last longer by slowing down slightly toward the end.

The last section after Haw Creek Campground is a beautiful walk.

After the drive back to Ozone everyone headed home. It had been at least a couple of years since my last visit to the Ozone Burger Barn, so I stopped in and it was better than ever! I highly recommend the “Vintage Burger” with all the old fashioned toppings. They had a nice fire going outside which made waiting for food a pleasure.