California Tour

I hiked through the High Sierra Mountains on the John Muir Trail with several friends in 2016. I sometimes describe life as Before John Muir and After John Muir. You can read of that backpacking trip at this link. A Few Steps in Paradise

Since 2016, I’ve wanted to share a trip to Yosemite with my wife so she can see firsthand why the High Sierras so impressed me. This May we finally took an organized tour with about twenty-five great folks who were truly interested in learning about the areas we visited. Our tour leader had a background as a park ranger and had grown up in the area. His knowledge was extensive, and his enthusiasm was something to behold.

I’ve been lax about posting on this blog lately but now that I’ve finished the second edition of Five Star Trails: The Ozarks, I want to get back to blogging about the beauty I see out in nature, so our California tour is a good place to start.

Note: This post is an overview of the trip. Due to space, I’ve left out many details and hardly mentioned the food which was very good!

Now back to California. This was my first ever Globus tour and I hope not my last. The smaller number of participants made it easier to connect with others as you share the learning and all logistics are simpler.

Jake, the tour leader, was excellent. His depth of knowledge brought locations to life and his handling of logistics gave us peace of mind. Our driver, JR, was excellent as well. He kept that bus clean and his driving was top-of-the line. 

The following illustration shows the general flow of our trip beginning and ending in San Francisco.

San Francisco is a great urban hiking location. We walked several miles our first morning just exploring a part of the bay not on our scheduled tour. We used Mission and Market Streets to access the Ferry Terminal Building and expansive views out across the bay. The large double deck Oakland Bay Bridge was in the area, and we were fascinated by the sculpture of a large human figure made from metal bracing and screen wire. 

Our organized tour included an exploration of the city of San Francisco and a walk on the Golden Gate Bridge as well as a boat ride that circled the long-abandoned Alcatraz Island in the San Francisco Bay. Alcatraz Island was once a fort, then a military prison, and lastly, a maximum-security federal penitentiary. The prison closed in 1963 after 29 years in operation.

I must mention San Francisco’s historic Cole Hardware perched on a corner across the street from our hotel. Entering was like stepping back in time and their stock was impressive. We found the phone charger we were looking for.

We regularly saw driverless cars. I was impressed. After watching one driverless car easily flowing with the traffic, I saw an angry man gripping his steering wheel and driving erratically just a few cars later . Maybe driverless cars have the advantage where road rage is concerned.

Sonoma and Nappa Valley wowed me more than expected. Spending time at the Kunde Winery was a treat and we enjoyed the wine tasting even though most of us rarely tasted wine before noon. The young man who led our tour seemed knowledgeable beyond his years. We enjoyed visiting a series of caves the Kunde Winery constructed as their storage sellers. 

From Nappa Valley it was a short drive into Sacramento, the Capitol of California. The state capitol was memorable because of the huge Deodar Cedar campion tree on the front lawn. 

Old Town Sacramento was buzzing with activity. We found a second floor Mexican restaurant and had a good meal while the city noises buzzed away down below. 

I can’t walk past a young street musician without giving a listen and dropping something in the tip hat. Got more good drumming than I expected from this young man and his little brother. 

Seven-year-old drummer

I enjoyed taking a few photos of a historic tower bridge over the Sacramento River close to our hotel. 

On to Yosemite!

We spent two nights at Tenaya Lodge on the edge of Yosemite National Park which was part of our reason for favoring this itinerary. We had an afternoon to explore waterfalls and the next morning we were able to take a tram ride and explore some more by foot.. At first the tram sounded touristy but it was worthwhile and gave us a better overview of the park than I got on my visit ten years ago. I’d recently read John Muir’s description of Yosemite and his words have stood the test of time. 

…no temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life.  … Awful in stern, immovable majesty, how softly these rocks are adorned, and how fine and reassuring the company they keep: their feet among beautiful groves and meadows, their brows in the sky, a thousand flowers leaning confidingly against their feet, bathed in floods of water, floods of light, while the snow and waterfalls… Down through the middle of the Valley flows the crystal Merced, River of Mercy, peacefully quiet, reflecting lilies and trees and the onlooking rocks; things frail and fleeting and types of endurance meeting here and blending in countless forms, as if into this one mountain mansion Nature had gathered her choicest treasures, to draw her lovers into close and confiding communion with her. From Yosemite, by John Muir, 1912

Sequoia and King’s Canyon 

We did a short walk at Grant Grove, home of General Grant Tree, the second largest is the world at 268 feet tall. We walked through a tree tunnel and enjoyed animated interpretations of the area by Jake. 

We made a lunch stop at Grant Grove Restaurant and Visitor Center.

We visited the General Sherman Tree, largest in the world at 275 feet. In 2021 during forest fires, foil quilts were placed around the bases of some of the largest Sequoias as a precaution. Controlled burns are done routinely since it was learned that fire is required to open the small, tight cones 

Shortly after arriving at Wuksachi Lodge in Sequoia National Park, we got the bonus of snow at the end of May. It was a beautiful but didn’t interfere with driving.

After the amazing Sequoias, we took a turn toward history at Carmel by the Sea, Pebble Beach, and Cannery Row in Monterey. We loved getting our feet wet and seeing a historically significant lone Cypress before continuing to the Pebble Beach Golf Course. 

I’m not a golfer but visiting Pebble Beach with its rich history was a treat. Looking through the visitor center I wished that a former boss, Charles B. Dyer, was still alive because he would have enjoyed hearing my report of this stop. I would have been motivated to retrieve two golf balls I saw at the shore close to the eighth hole. Those would have made good souvenirs for Mr. Dyer.

We made a shopping and lunch stop in Carmel by the Sea, notable because Clint Eastwood served one term as major from1986-88.

I enjoyed stepping into a historic church that is still active and open to visitors.

After Carmel, we drove to Cannery Row. During the trip I was reading John Steinbeck’s book, Cannery Row. I liked the following passage where the character, Doc, is describing the rough and ready local workers. It still holds relevance today.

“It has always seemed strange to me,” said Doc, “the things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second.” John Steinbeck, Cannery Row, 1945

A few reconditioned structures and footings from Cannery Row remain. The processing of sardines accelerated around 1915 (World War I) as a protein source for soldiers and peaked from 1941-45 during World War II. Due to overfishing and water temperature changes, the sardine population diminished and the last fishery closed in 1973. What remains is an active tourist destination and some beautiful shore lines.

Shores of Cannery Row

We loved visiting California and meeting a great group of people and wished the trip could have lasted longer, especially in the Yosemite area. Still, we were glad to get back to the Ozarks and the beauty of Arkansas!

Fellow travelers

Black Fork Mountain

Kerry, Bob, and I wanted to hike Black Fork Mountain. It would not be our first time on this trail, but several years had passed since any of us had been up that trail. Our plan was to begin at Queen Wilhelmina State Park and hike down to where the trail crosses the Ouachita River. There we’d pick up extra water and hike to the Black Fork Shelter for a couple of nights.

Our first night was at Queen Wilhelmina State Park. We were “Glamping” with nice campsites, access to restrooms, and a restaurant close by. I almost felt guilty in my truck camper while Bob and Kerry tent camped but both options gave a good night’s sleep. I look forward to using this campground and the nearby Winding Stairs Campground again. Rich Mountain and the Queen Wilhelmina area are great camping destinations.

As we walked, I thought back to a thru-hike on the Ouachita Trail in the winter of 2018. Back then, flakes of ice hung from the trees and littered the ground. Quite a different scene now as a warm sun beat down on this spring day.

The next morning, we began working our way up Black Fork Mountain through alternating pine groves, hardwood forests, and scrub oaks along high ridges. The hardest part was following a reroute down below a rockslide. Every step down meant another uphill step later to regain the elevation lost.

The views across the valley to Rich Mountain kept us engaged as we tried to identify roads, Queen Wilhelmina Lodge up top, and a little Country Store down below. 

Thanks to occasional survey tape we were able to follow the trail without difficulty. Greenbriers clawed at us on the high ridges and we agreed this was a “long pants trail.” 

We were pleased to find an old chimney still in place along with a few rusty artifacts. I had a close look at the blade of what looked like a small hoe before returning it to where I found it. Bob found what looked like pieces of a horse or mule shoe. All items were left as we found them.

We were pleased to finally arrive at the rock outcrop that marks the top of Black Fork Mountain.

I filled my water bottle at a small murky pond less than a mile from the Black Fork Shelter. I ran that water through my Sawyer filter when we returned to the shelter and it was good! Water options up on Black Fork Mountain are limited unless there’s been recent rain so the pond is a treasured little resource.

The hike back down the mountain included that long uphill from the reroute around an old rock slide. We were thankful for every little cool breeze that came our way as we worked our way back down to Black Fork Shelter for the night. Everyone had a good appetite after their Black Fork workout.

Hiker-dog at Alum Cove Natural Bridge

It doesn’t seem possible that Hiker-dog has been part of our family for over ten years now. She must be around twelve years old now but she still loves the trails and exploring.

Recently we visited Alum Cove Natural Bridge and had the whole trail to ourselves for a little while, so I let her go off leash for a few minutes, especially around the icy spots in the trail. I had visions of her pulling me across the ice as a sled and wanted to avoid that fun.

She provided me with some entertainment underneath the natural bridge as she danced and skated across the icy stream that runs through and down the bottom of the cove. As temperatures warmed, we avoided being underneath massive ice formations that could fall with the impact of small boulders.

View from on top of the natural bridge.

We took a little time to explore the areas around this natural wonder. I always marvel when facing such complex but artistic views formed mostly by water and time.

Hiker-dog liked this little cave on the other side of Alum Cove. Nice view and protection from the elements. I’m pretty certain these caves were shelters for early inhabitants of the Ozarks. While inside, we had to keep an eye overhead to be sure we weren’t walking under icicles hanging from above.

Spotting Becca at the entrance of this cave helped me realize the size.

Hiker-dog says, “Thanks for joining us.” If you’d like to read how Hiker-dog joined up with our family at mile 138 of the Ozark Highlands Trail, it’s available at Chapters on Main in Van Buren, Bookish in Fort Smith, and Amazon.com online.

Ozarks Camping and Trails on the Cheap

If you’re looking for a quiet campground in the Ozarks, the Ozone Campground is a little jewel of a location. It’s less than three miles north of the community of Ozone on Hwy 21 north of Clarksville, AR.

The water faucet at the pavilion worked in January when I visited. No guarantees but when I visited, the outlets on the pavilion were on and available to charge your electronics. The pit toilets are convenient, functional, and filled with that refreshing outhouse aroma that says you’re roughing it. 

The Ozone Campground is located right on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). From campsite #5, it’s a short walk downhill to the trail register. From there either direction promises a beautiful hike. You can make it as strenuous as you like by customizing the length and your pace. The OHT is open to foot traffic only.

 After taking a close look at Camp Ozone, named for the CCC Camp that once stood here, I decided the next trip would include camping. Where else can you get a campsite like this in a beautiful location for $3 a night ($1.50 with a senior pass).

Hiker-dog and I did an out-and-back on the OHT down alongside Little Piney Creek for 3.5 miles which gave us a 7 mile hike with a good workout on the climb back up to the campground.


Had a great meal at the Burger Barn a couple of miles south on Hwy 21 in the community of Ozone. A couple was just finishing when I stopped there and another couple was ordering about the time my catfish plate was ready. That seems pretty busy for a small town in the Ozarks of Arkansas.

The Ozark Highlands Trail from Arbaugh to Morgan Fields (27-miles)

Wolf Ridge overlook

Sometimes life gets complicated and backpacking moves to the back burner. There’s plenty to fill the space with trail maintenance, day hiking, finding new trails, playing music, and family obligations. All of these things are important and worthy of attention, but for me to be my best self for others, it’s essential to get out there for a few nights on the trails when possible. 

A couple of longtime friends and I planned a trip but temperatures for the week we had in mind were going to be into the single digits so we decided that might not be a good plan for our first backpacking trip of the winter. Our good friend, Bob, had a scheduling conflict by the time temperatures returned to normal, so it was just Kerry and me for this one.

I spent the night before at Redding Campground, so I’d have a short drive up Morgan Mt. Road on Tuesday when we started out. There was only one other camper there on the other side of the campground, so it felt like I had the place to myself. This is a great little campground without any hookups. There’s a connecting trail to Redding Loop and Spy Rock Spur. 

stove

I fixed a REAL breakfast Tuesday morning with a new stove. I like this stove! It’s like being in a kitchen when compared to my backpacking Esbit Cube stove. 

Esbit stove
Esbit stove and wind shield

We looked at several options. We settled on Arbaugh Trailhead north of Oark hiking west to Morgan Fields for a total of 27 miles. The first 3 miles are Kerry’s adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Since he had family obligations in the fall, a group of his friends gave his section some attention. I wanted him to see the good work we’d done. Kerry has hiked that section 48 times or more over the years between leading hikes and maintaining. But we both agree, it never gets old. 

Kerry looking down into Lynn Hollow and enjoying a well maintained trail.

The trail descends past a new low impact campsite and then to Lynn Hollow crossing. This whole area is beautiful, especially when water is flowing as it was when we walked through. If you ever need a short over-nighter or shakedown trip, camping here and exploring the Lynn Hollow area would be a good option. 

Lunch spot close to MM66

We hiked 11 miles to the west and camped at MM59, Wolf Ridge. This is a popular spot with plenty of tent sites, a well-established fire ring and great view. 

Filtering water at Wolf Ridge

The small stream close by has never been dry, even during the driest of falls. 

Wednesday, we hiked 9 miles and camped at Indian Creek. While passing through the Marinoni Scenic Area, we met the only other backpacker we’d see over our three-days on the trail. 

On Thursday, we hiked seven miles. We were feeling the climbs, even slight, but the open woods and running streams were a pleasure every step of the way.

Our three-days on the trail ended at Morgan Fields Trailhead. We were tired but already looking forward to our next walk on the Ozark Highlands Trail.