A Father’s Influence Along Life’s Trail

A Father’s Day post…

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My father (on the far right) with friends in Hot Springs, Arkansas

I have some of my father’s traits and am thankful for those in every case. Sadly, I did not get his 6-pack abs or shiny dark hair, but I’m thankful to have inherited his legs and his enjoyment for walking our little planet.

When daddy was in high school in Smackover, Arkansas, he took a job with a local man who was doing concrete work in a nearby oil field. There were 8-10 young men moving and spreading concrete in the summer heat. At the end of the day, only he and a couple of other guys remained. They were hired to continue the next day. He was strong and determined.

I’m thankful for this photo of my father and me moving dirt in our wheelbarrows. I think about my dad every time I see a wheelbarrow, especially if it’s full and difficult to balance! I’ve never had the physical strength to match my father’s, but I’ve shown signs of his determination on occasion.

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A rare photo of my father fishing

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Hiking a mountain on the edge of Arteaga in Mexico during the late 90s

Over the years, my dad and I’ve shared several hiking trails. When I was a child, our family often visited state parks in the Ouachitas or Ozarks region. As an adult, I had the privilege of hiking trails with my dad at Petit Jean State Park one early spring morning. I still think about him each time I walk down that favorite trail, thankful for his strength in my legs and memories of his love for creation.

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Daddy and mother at Petit Jean State Park during the 1980s.

Dad made many beautiful things from iron and he had an eye for photography. He let me “play” with his Zeiss Contessa camera when I was young. He purchased it while serving in the Army.

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Photo taken on his Zeiss Contessa while serving in the Korean War (early 1950s).

He learned to weld as a young man and got into ironwork as a sideline business to supplement the family income. His regular job was shift work as a chemist and later environmental control in local oil and chemical plants. On Saturdays and some evenings, I would help in his iron shop by grinding and buffing handrails. At other times, I’d assist him with an installation. Working with my father was good experience for a teenager and made me appreciate his work-ethic.

As a hobby, he sometimes made decorative items from iron. Below are a few examples. He made the imaginary plant on the right from corroded telephone wire being thrown away next to a railroad in South Arkansas. In the center is his replica of a “preacher-in-a-pulpit” wildflower using a piece of oil shale rock as a base.

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This book was personally delivered to my father as an expression of thanks for the progress of South Korea since the war.

This soft-spoken and hard-working man often said he was lucky to have been stationed in Korea during a lull in the fighting as if he should apologize. He still had opportunities to show his character in the face of danger.

Once he was leading a platoon and his point man froze as they approached a potential minefield. My dad told the point man and others to follow his steps as he led the soldiers through the area, knowing that the discovery of a mine would probably end his life but save others in his platoon. I’ve always admired that fearless quality in my father!

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Lieutenant Warnock made friends with children in Korea

My parents are members of what we often hear referred to as the greatest generation. Based on close inspection of this man and his wife for my entire life, I can confirm they are members of the greatest generation.

Those of us who’ve shared the trail with them would do well to emulate as many of their traits as possible. I like what writer Neil Gaiman said recently in a commencement speech. “If you can’t be wise, pretend to be someone who is, and act the way you think they would act.” Not bad advice when you have these models of wisdom and character.

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Mother and daddy with a vase he gave her before they were married, 65 years ago.

A Stroll Through History on the Arkansas River

Stroll

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View of the Fort Smith Courthouse as you approach the trailhead

I typically like hiking in the deep woods of the Ozark Mountains, but this little urban path is a fun hike for kids and history buffs. It’s also a great place for runners and cyclists visiting the city of Fort Smith.

Driving Directions: To get to the trailhead, turn southwest off of Garrison Ave (AR 64) onto 4th Street. Then turn right (northwest) onto Garland and drive one block to 3rd street and the entrance to a parking area. A covered pavilion is at the north end of the parking area, and this is where we’ll begin our walk.

GPS  Trailhead Coordinates: N35° 23.260’  W94° 25.851’

Distance and Additional Information:  4.6-mile out-and-back with a small loop. This route is wheelchair accessible throughout. Leashed pets are allowed.

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This is one of the few (maybe only) trails I’ve walked that begins by crossing a railroad track, but train traffic is limited (or non-existent). The entire trail described here is handicapped accessible. There are restrooms at the Historic Site Visitor Center just to the northeast of the trailhead. There are also restrooms at the River Park Events Center about 1 mile into the hike. Be sure to carry water even. There are water fountains at the River Park, but they were not on when I visited.

The trail climbs slightly to a small loop around the site of the First Fort Smith, 1817-1824. Stone footings are still visible where the fort stood overlooking the Arkansas River.

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One section of footings at the site of the original Fort Smith

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Site of the original Fort Smith

The trail backtracks a short distance to where you’ll take a right and circle around until the Arkansas River is on your left side. You’ll come to the Trail of Tears Overlook with interpretative markers and a bench. A set of stairs invites you to walk down by the riverside where you might see geese and other wildlife.

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The shoreline below the Trail of Tears Overlook

After leaving the overlook, continue down the paved path into a wooded area with a high shaded canopy. Some of the larger trees are cottonwood with a few sycamore close to the riverside. I looked around to be sure we were alone and then let Hiker-dog take a quick run through these woods. She returned and let me leash her back up before any other walkers were in the area.

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The trail passes a spur to the right that takes you back to the trailhead if you want a short walk. We’ll use this spur later when we return from our out-and-back. Continue under Garrison Bridge at 0.7 mile and to the River Park stage. Turn left (southwest) and walk under the bridge a short distance then turn right (southeast), walking downstream with the river on your left. You’ll come to stone steps that outline the Riverfront Amphitheater seating area. Handicapped accessible switchbacks lead up the seating area to the Events Center.

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Looking through the Riverfront Amphitheater toward the River Park Events Center

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After walking past the River Park Events Center, you’ll come to a pavilion with a bronze statue of a girl carrying flowers and a basket. This is where the River Trail officially begins as it follows the Arkansas River downstream.  IMG_1055rrIMG_1142rr

A short distance down the 12-foot wide path leads you to an overlook with two beautiful bronze sculptures. This is a nice destination if you want a shorter walk.

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Looking back upriver toward the River Park from the River Trail

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This statue seems to celebrate the river and land to the west.

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From the overlook, continue down the river and come to the River Trail Bridge at 2-miles into the walk. Just before the bridge is a spur trail left to the riverside. This is a great place for fishing, but Hiker-dog saw it as an opportunity for a quick dip. A small pavilion is on the other side of the bridge. The bridge is another possible destination and turnaround point.IMG_1112rr

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View of the pavilion and Arkansas River from the River Trail Bridge

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Looking upriver toward the Garrison River Bridge

Standing at the edge of the Arkansas River, you realize the strength of its flow. It might appear tranquil from a distance, but there is a firmness in the water as it speeds along. This barge churned its way upstream on the morning of our walk.

The paved trail continues and then comes alongside private property before ending at Riverfront Drive. A dirt path continues from there along the top of a levy. A ranger told me there are plans to eventually extend this trail to all the way to Van Buren. For today’s walk, we’ll turn around here and head back the way we came.

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Barge working its way up river

After a nice out-and-back on the River Trail, we return to the Fort Smith Historic Site and take a left at 4.2 miles into our walk. This is the spur we passed earlier and it takes us back to the trailhead. Going straight would take you back around to the Trail of Tears Overlook and would give a little more distance to your hike. This route gives you a total of 4.6 miles, the perfect distance for a walk or run right in the center of downtown Fort Smith.

For solitude, go early in the morning, because this urban trail is getting some heavy use from residents and tourists. It should have a positive impact on the community for years to come.

If you have time, check out the gift shop in the Historic Site Visitors Center. You’ll find a variety of books related to the region and National Park Service programs that children and adults will enjoy.  You can take a tour of the Fort Smith Courthouse and decide for yourself if Judge Parker’s reputation as the “hanging judge” was justified. You’ll also learn about Bass Reeves, the first black U.S. Deputy Marshal west of the Mississippi River. Continue your stroll through history on the grounds around the Courthouse and let the kids get a close look at historic artifacts.

Hiker-dog says, “Thanks for coming along.” IMG_9875Hikerpaw23

 

 

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Reentering the Fort Smith Historic Site after walking past the River Park on our out-and-back.

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View of the First Fort Smith as you return from the River Trail

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Judge Parker’s gallows are in the foreground with the Fort Smith Courthouse and Visitor Center in the background.

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Someone in period costume arriving to participate in one of the children’s programs.

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