The Ozark Highlands Trail from Arbaugh to Morgan Fields (27-miles)

Wolf Ridge overlook

Sometimes life gets complicated and backpacking moves to the back burner. There’s plenty to fill the space with trail maintenance, day hiking, finding new trails, playing music, and family obligations. All of these things are important and worthy of attention, but for me to be my best self for others, it’s essential to get out there for a few nights on the trails when possible. 

A couple of longtime friends and I planned a trip but temperatures for the week we had in mind were going to be into the single digits so we decided that might not be a good plan for our first backpacking trip of the winter. Our good friend, Bob, had a scheduling conflict by the time temperatures returned to normal, so it was just Kerry and me for this one.

I spent the night before at Redding Campground, so I’d have a short drive up Morgan Mt. Road on Tuesday when we started out. There was only one other camper there on the other side of the campground, so it felt like I had the place to myself. This is a great little campground without any hookups. There’s a connecting trail to Redding Loop and Spy Rock Spur. 

stove

I fixed a REAL breakfast Tuesday morning with a new stove. I like this stove! It’s like being in a kitchen when compared to my backpacking Esbit Cube stove. 

Esbit stove
Esbit stove and wind shield

We looked at several options. We settled on Arbaugh Trailhead north of Oark hiking west to Morgan Fields for a total of 27 miles. The first 3 miles are Kerry’s adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Since he had family obligations in the fall, a group of his friends gave his section some attention. I wanted him to see the good work we’d done. Kerry has hiked that section 48 times or more over the years between leading hikes and maintaining. But we both agree, it never gets old. 

Kerry looking down into Lynn Hollow and enjoying a well maintained trail.

The trail descends past a new low impact campsite and then to Lynn Hollow crossing. This whole area is beautiful, especially when water is flowing as it was when we walked through. If you ever need a short over-nighter or shakedown trip, camping here and exploring the Lynn Hollow area would be a good option. 

Lunch spot close to MM66

We hiked 11 miles to the west and camped at MM59, Wolf Ridge. This is a popular spot with plenty of tent sites, a well-established fire ring and great view. 

Filtering water at Wolf Ridge

The small stream close by has never been dry, even during the driest of falls. 

Wednesday, we hiked 9 miles and camped at Indian Creek. While passing through the Marinoni Scenic Area, we met the only other backpacker we’d see over our three-days on the trail. 

On Thursday, we hiked seven miles. We were feeling the climbs, even slight, but the open woods and running streams were a pleasure every step of the way.

Our three-days on the trail ended at Morgan Fields Trailhead. We were tired but already looking forward to our next walk on the Ozark Highlands Trail. 

Hare Mountain Annual Ritual

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View to the west from Hare Mountain

What causes folks of all ages and locations to climb a hill and eat a meal together for over 30 years running? This was my thought as I drove the 46-miles to the Morgan Fields Traihead next to Hare Mountain, with my to-do list for the next week weighing on my mind. This was probably my tenth Hare Mountain Hike-In. I couldn’t be sure.

I’d hiked Shepherd Springs Loop at Lake Fort Smith that morning so Hiker-dog wouldn’t be upset at being left behind for the Hare Mountain hike. The early morning clouded sky played with the light and made this a delightful hike so she seemed willing to rest when I left for Hare Mt. in the early afternoon.

Shepherd Springs Loop photos from our morning hike. 

As I stepped off the gravel road at Morgan Fields Trailhead and felt the cushioned surface beneath my feet in a quiet pine grove, my shoulders began to relax. The weight of my pack felt like a close friend’s hand on my back. The slight climb felt good, and my heart began to tap a stronger rhythm as cares dropped away like dust from the soles of my shoes.

Pretty quickly it became evident that a fire was burning to the west of the mountain this year. The woods were dry, so I was thankful that there wasn’t any wind.

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Smoke rising from the valley to the west.

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Rock wall next to the trail

Continuing past rock walls above the trail, I began to think of Hare Mountain Hike-Ins-past. I thought of Wildman, well into his 80s, and the mischievous twinkle in his eyes as he talked of the long trails he’d hiked or watched the energy of children playing around the campfire. I thought of others who, like Wildman, were no longer with us. I wondered what memories and feelings of nostalgia might follow those who’ve hiked this path for twenty or thirty years.

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Wildman enjoyed visiting with youngsters on Hare Mountain

When it looked as if the Hare Mountain Hike-In tradition might be discontinued a couple of years ago, Bob and Dana Cable stepped forward to continue scheduling the “Hike-In” as in the past.

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Dana and Bob

While sitting around the campfire, Bob announced that Grey Owl and his wife Lenna hiked up earlier in the day for a quick visit with other early arrivers and then walked back down the mountain to avoid driving back to Oklahoma in the dark. I was sorry to miss them but thankful that they made the hike in this year. Bob’s imitation coonskin hat was a gift from Grey Owl several years ago and he always wears it on Hare Mountain.

The fire burning below the mountain made a memory for this year’s hike-in. After the potluck feast, Steve and I took a few photos of the red glow below in the darkness. It was an unusual and beautiful scene, especially since we had word that the fire was contained.

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Ritual is the word that came to mind while walking away from the top of Hare Mountain. Doing this hike each year could be considered a “ceremony consisting of a series of actions performed according to a prescribed order.” It’s also fun, which I don’t think disqualifies the word “ritual.”

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Grey Owl’s quick hike up earlier that day confirmed my thoughts. The Hare Mountain Hike-In rises to the level of ritual for many of us. Maybe it’s the simple desire for fellowship with trail friends, or it’s a fitness check as you compare this year’s hike with those in the past. Maybe it’s a chance to share our collective memories and relive stories from the trails we’ve hiked. Whatever the reasons we choose to make this trek, my hope is that it will continue to be a tradition (or ritual) for years to come.