Johnny Carroll Sain included an excerpt from my OHT thru-hike post in his wonderful article about long trails in Arkansas. Made me proud and he was a pleasure to work with! A link to the article is below.
You can find Johnny Sain’s entire article plus my recommended hikes at this Arkansas Life link: Over the River and Through the Woods
December 29: This trek through the Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area would bring Hiker-dog closer to completing the Ozark Highlands Trail. It was also the final section needed for one of our group to finish the traditional 165-miles of the OHT. 
One vehicle approached the bridge as we crossed, but the driver stopped and gave us a friendly wave as we continued across the one-lane bridge.
The winter woods were open and clear under sunny skies. 
Eric and Hiker-dog paused to take in the views at the slow running Hurricane Creek. The water was as clear and the bottom of the creek was as slippery as I remembered. Even Hiker-dog’s four paws slipped a time or two. 
Bob and Eric did some rock hopping to cross dry. Scott, Hiker-dog, and I all chose to wade the creek. 
It looked like Scott found a deep spot in the creek, but we all made it across dry and ready to move on up the trail. 
Winter leaf-off is a good time to view Natural Bridge perched at the top of bluffs on the west side of Hurricane Creek. 
Thanks to Eric for noticing the color reflecting upstream. We took turns photographing the scene with my camera since Eric’s camera batteries were drained. 
Hiker seemed to enjoy showing off by hopping rocks as the sun continued to move lower in the sky. 
We were in our tents by 7 p.m., lulled to sleep by the gentle sounds of Hurricane Creek below our campsite. Coyotes let loose a chorus of howls late in the night, but I find their distant cries relaxing and part of the beauty of nighttime in the Ozarks. Temperatures got down to the mid-20s.
Around midnight, I answered nature’s call and enjoyed looking at the starry sky for a moment before returning to my tent. I discovered Hiker-dog curled up on my down blanket rather than her Thermarest sleeping pad. When she felt my feet under the quilt, she moved back to her bed, sorry that I didn’t see the need for her to have a down bed.
December 30: After passing through beautiful woods along the Hurricane Creek (and doing some pretty intense climbing) we dropped back down to creek level and a favorite historical chimney. 
After the east crossing of Hurricane Creek, we passed the Highwater Bypass and continued toward Chancel and our campsite at a small creek that eventually feeds into Buck Brn Creek.
no-name creek
This little creek without a name is imprinted on my memory. On one of my early hikes through the Hurricane Creek area, a friend ran out of water after we passed this creek and suffered heat exhaustion. He made it out but was pretty sick for a couple of days. I always check my water carefully when passing this creek just prior to mile 115.
Scott filtering water at our second campsite
We found excellent water at our second campsite located between mile 119 and 120. Another nameless creek, it always seems to have water.
All meals seemed to taste better on that second night, maybe because of the more than nine hilly miles we’d hiked. Bob commented that Hiker was an 8-mile dog because she slept soundly as we ate. She bounced back strong the next morning.
December 31: The next morning we walked through beautiful boulder fields making our way toward Chancel junction.
Using Hiker to put the size of boulders in perspective
Chancel junction
Coming down into the Buck Brn Creek was a treat visually, but it meant a lot of climbing on the other side as we made our way toward Fairview Trailhead. 
Bob reminded me of the arched shape of the bridge below Forest Road 1209A. I dropped down for a few pictures before rejoining the group on the trail and the big climb toward Fairview. 
After lots of huffing and puffing, we arrived at the trip’s end. Celebrations were in order as this was the last section Scott needed to complete 165-mile of the OHT. We were proud of his accomplishment.
We’re also looking forward to Hiker-dog’s completion of the OHT. I think the thru-hike patch will look good on her pack, but the real reward is good times spent with good people exploring the Ozarks!
If you’d like to read the story of how Hiker-dog first joined us on the trail in 2014: Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat – Fairview to Tyler Bend and a New Hiking Partner
Rock House
The Rock House is one of my favorite landmarks on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). It’s easily accessed, but most drive Highway 23 unaware of the history perched under a bluff a mere quarter mile walk from the road. As the crow flies, the distance is much closer and during the winter it’s easy to see the highway down below. Don’t let the roundtrip 0.5-mile by trail deceive you. It’s a steep climb on the Ozark Highlands Trail and a short spur trail to the structure. If you walk to see Rock House, wear sturdy walking shoes and carry some water.
The Rock House was probably built as a shelter for loggers sometime during the 1890s to 1920s when the area was heavily logged for white oak, in high demand because of the expansion of railroads across the country. By the 1930s, the old-growth forests were pretty much exhausted. It still makes a good shelter today in spite of some shifting of the ground that has caused a separation between the wall and bluff. It has a rough concrete floor, and a small spring located in the back of the single room.
The short hike to Rock House begins at Cherry Bend Trail Head, located approximately five miles north of Cass on AR 23 (AKA Pig Trail). This is a popular trailhead for accessing the OHT. Watch for fast traffic when crossing the highway as you begin your walk.
Cherry Bend Trail Head
A spur trail leads to a nice view behind the trailhead sign, but to access the OHT and Rock House, you’ll cross the highway on a short trail marked with blue blazes.
Lost sole…
There is a thru-hike trail register at the intersection with the OHT. We’re going to turn left onto the OHT and head sharply uphill following white blazes. I only saw one “lost sole” on my hike up to Rock House. You’ll often have the OHT all to yourself, but you might encounter thru-hikers and enjoy a short visit about their time on the trail.
Sign indicating spur trail to Rock House blue blazes marking the spur and white blazes marking the OHT
Front door facing the approaching spur trail
On a thru-hike of the Ozark Highlands Trail in December of 2013, a hiking buddy and I spent a cold night in the Rock House sheltered from the rain. Seeing car lights below made me want to rush down and beg someone to bring pizza from Clarksville, but staying warm in my sleeping bag won that short mental argument.
Today as I revisit the Rock House, it’s sunny and mild for February. The views of the Ozark Mountains to the east are enticing. I feel the desire to load my pack and head out for a multi-day hike over Hare Mountain and through the Marinoni Scenic Area to Lick Branch.
Hiker and spring in the back of the Rock House
Hiker attempted to drink from the spring in the back corner but the water was a couple of feet below the edge, and she didn’t couldn’t reach it. The water from this spring needs to be filtered. The single time I filtered water here, it wasn’t the best. It would be good water if you’re in a bind or have time to filter it through cloth before using your water filter.
Inside the Rock House
You can see the toll that time has taken. The separation of the rock walls from the bluff ceiling are evident as well as the loose rocks around doors and windows. Please leave this fragile structure as you find it. The Rock House is a little historic treasure we’ll want our children and grandchildren to see for years to come!
Note: I’ve enjoyed sharing a glimpse of the rich history surrounding the Ozark Highlands Trail. If you know of other structures in the Arkansas or Missouri Ozarks, please share them with me on my feedback page or comment on this post.
Route from Hwy 23 to Rock House
Cherry Bend Trail Head GPS: N35 44.554 W93 48.799
Cherry Bend Trailhead is located approximately 5 miles north of Cass on Arkansas Highway 23. The second waypoint on the above map is the intersection with the OHT. The OHT route showing on this web map is an approximation. The last waypoint on the east side of Highway 23 is the Rock House.
Back door of the Rock House
Video Slideshow of OHT Thru-Hike
To see how that scrawny lost dog from the slideshow is doing today: What Makes Hiker a Good Trail Partner?
To read the story of this thru-hike go to Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat.
The idea of this hike began with a recurring and nagging thought over a period of months… “I want to hike the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) end to end.” I had hiked most of the trail in pieces and random order but never in sequence from beginning to end. I planned to hike it alone but when hiking buddy Bob mentioned that he would like to join me I was pleased. He has great outdoor skills and he’s a strong hiker. As a practical matter, the trip becomes safer with a second person, especially since we have a compatible hiking pace and mutual respect for each other. We were pleased to welcome another fellow hiker and good friend, Steve, into our group for the second leg of the trip. We would have been happy to have him for the whole outing but his work schedule wouldn’t allow this.
We decided to do the OHT in two stages, taking a couple of days off for Christmas. As it turned out, heavy rains changed our itinerary and dictated that our last five days of hiking would occur later in January so we could avoid the Buffalo River crossing at Wollum.
We decided to do the OHT in three legs: Five days followed by two days for Christmas. We would then hike six days, completing the final leg in January with an additional five days.
Planning and packing took lots of time but the anticipation is an important part of the enjoyment. Packing equipment is similar to other shorter trips. The challenge was to prepare food for 5-6 days of hiking at a time. I kept my dehydrator running for a couple of days with the goal of avoiding commercial dehydrated meals and their high salt and funky taste.
Dehydrated gold potatoes
Determining which clothes to pack was a challenge. Winter in Arkansas can bring a range of temperatures. Nighttime temperatures were expected into the twenties with daytime temps anywhere in the forties to sixties. One very important piece of equipment is a waterproof stuff bag. In this I place a base layer to ensure that I have dry clothes at the end of the day when I crawl into my tent. As an added step I place these clothes in a freezer ziplock bag.
Backpack pile taking form
In the above picture you’ll find my sleeping bag in a waterproof stuff stack, orange waterproof bag for clothes, tent, ziplock with base layer, food bag for one leg of the trip, stove, water, etc. This pile eventually takes shape after going over a checklist several times.
Backpack loaded and ready to go.
Finally we begin! Bob and I met at Lake Fort Smith State Park and stepped off of the concrete sidewalk leading to the beginning of the OHT. It felt good to be on the trail with only 180 miles to go. During the first few miles we saw three raccoon and a bald eagle.
Beginning
Raccoon next to the OHT.
One of many camping sites we were to see over the course of our hike. There was always an ample supply of water and firewood.
Making camp
Dehydrated potatoes and squash
Yummy … I did discover that the potatoes are much better if allowed to re-hydrate for an hour or so before cooking. This wasn’t always possible which just resulted in chewy but tasty potatoes.
I carried a notebook and pencil and had great intentions of reflecting on each day and recording my thoughts. By about the second day I realized that this was unlikely. On a long hike, the days have a rhythm and flow to them. My “to do” list became very simple and consisted of doing things that related to meeting basic needs while on the trail. On my third night I wrote what was to be my “to do” list for the next eight days, “walk, eat, sleep, repeat.”
That pretty well summed it up so I put my pencil and notepad away and began focusing on the trail, not my thoughts about the trail. I let my mind fall into the natural rhythm of walking 6-7 hours each day. After making camp, filtering water and preparing the evening meal, I let my mind flow back over the trail and enjoy the scenery once more without any obligation to write about it or learn from it. I began to enjoy the natural silent times around the campfire when no one felt obligated to speak. A story or comment might come out of the silence but there was the luxury of time to really hear and think about what was said.
I commented to Bob and Steve that I was really struggling to get by with only eleven hours of sleep each night. By the time you sit around the campfire until 7:00 p.m. it’s been dark for almost two hours. Your body says, “Hey, I’m getting cold. Why don’t you get in that warm sleeping bag and let me rest!” I found that my body could use this extra time for repair and maintenance. The trail, combined with rest, added a new type of strength unlike what I felt from typical daily workouts.
Falls along Spirits Creek
Crossing a swollen Spirits Creek
Day 2 and 3 brought light rain then heavy rain. I couldn’t resist taking a picture of Bob crossing Spirits Creek. He normally doesn’t use a stick whereas I use two hiking poles to stay erect while crossing creeks. His balance is impressive. On this day however, he used a stick to probe the floor of the normally clear Spirits Creek. Strong rains made all creeks cloudy with sediment. I was delighted to be on the other side.
I turned my camera to a waterfall spilling into Spirits Creek using a tree as a tripod. Then the camera was placed deep within my waterproof stuff bag for the remainder of the day due to rain. My only regret was failing to get a picture of what would have been our next creek crossing.
About five miles later, Fane Creek made Spirits look like a trickle. We ended up bushwhacking down the west side of Fane Creek for a half mile to a bridge and then following the road back to the trail to continue on. Seeing the Rock House was a relief. We were thoroughly wet, somewhat chilled, and hungry.
Refuge from the rain in the Rock House
View of a faint rainbow from the Rock House
A rainbow to the east followed through on its promise of better weather to come. We began to dry out while hiking the next day. Hiking over Hare Mountain resulted in some colder temperatures, probably down into the twenties. We wondered what the water levels at Harrods Creek would be like. Nothing like anticipating another bushwhack! What we found was a somewhat swollen Harrods Creek but we crossed without difficulty.
Frosty hiking as temperatures plummet.
One of many waterfalls along the trail.
Frost flower
Colder temperatures produced some little rewards along the trail. Frost flowers could often be seen during the morning walks. Once the sun came out they vanished. I enjoyed this little heart-shaped frost flower and took a pic to share with my wife who enjoys finding naturally occurring heart shapes in nature.
Frost Flower
Nice lunch spot overlooking the Mulberry River Valley
Passing the 100-mile marker.
Making the first 100 miles felt good! This left 25 miles to hike over the next two days and then 55 more miles to hike later in January.
Jerky snack
Cedar Creek
Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area
Icy bluffs along the trail.
Hurricane Creek
Hurricane Creek
Bob building a fire.
Sawyer water filter
Waterfall along the trail.
Hurricane Creek area
Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area
Detail of rock formations in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area
The Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area contains a maze of house-size boulders. The work of time, water, and temperature changes could be seen on the face of these boulders. I found it difficult to keep going through this section of the trail. My hand kept spontaneously reaching for my camera.
Finished the first 125 miles at Fairview Camp Ground.
The final climb from Hurricane Creek up to Fairview Camp Ground on Hwy 7 really kicked me good. It was as if the trail was anticipating my departure and wanted to leave me with that good feeling of total exhaustion! Wildman, who hiked many long trails during his long life, used to say he would find himself hiking slower as he approached the end of a long hike. He didn’t want it to end. I now understood what he meant. The climb, combined with my wish that the hike wouldn’t come to an end, made for a slow and reflective pace.
As we finished this leg of the outing I found myself wishing I could just continue on without stopping. I was firmly entrench in the rhythm of the trail….walk…eat…sleep….repeat…
To read the rest of the story go to Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat, Continued.
Campfire conversation…
The hike from Arbaugh to Ozone on the Ozark Highlands Trail was beautiful! We hike 8.8 miles the first day and camped at Boomer Branch. The surround sound howl of coyotes and an owl in the distance were the only disturbances to the silence of the woods and soft sound of flowing water. The weather was just cool enough to justify a small fire for cooking, warmth and good conversation. During a silent moment one hiker said, “You know where I would like to be?” Another asked, “Where?” “Right here,” he answered. “This is the best place in the world to be right now.” Night brought a few light sprinkles with lightning in the distance.
Sunday morning was cool but pleasant. Coffee made with Boomer Branch’s water was delicious. We hit the trail by 8:00 a.m. and gained a lot of elevation over the 4 miles to Ozone.
Open birch forest.
Highlights included hiking through a forest of beech trees with their deep brown leaves holding on through the winter. There were some smooth-hiking sections of shortleaf pine woods along the way before hiking back into the Mulberry drainage for a nice cool crossing. The final mile was a heart-throbbing, thigh-burning pull up to the Ozone Campground on Highway 21.
Crossing the Mulberry River.
Making Time for Marinoni
story and images JIM WARNOCK
Published in At Urban magazine of Fort Smith (This magazine is now named Do South)
There’s a treasure waiting for you in Franklin County, near the small town of Cass. One local backpacker recently said, “Hiking there is like walking through a beautiful cathedral!” Those who have experienced the Marinoni Scenic Area would completely understand this statement.
Imagine a place with twisting waterfalls, arching rock bluffs and towering trees. Walk along a gentle stream that flows over rocks into quiet, clear pools. The sounds of gurgling water, windblown trees, and a variety of songbirds will soothe your soul. Leave your cell phone in the car because there’s no coverage here; who wants to hear cold digital sounds in this acoustic setting?
The Marinoni is beautiful in every season. Fall colors glisten and shimmer,appearing as stained glass atop pools of water. Winter brings the possibility of stunning ice formations and frozen splash patterns around waterfalls. Spring brings dwarf crested irises peeking out from the most unlikely cracks and crevices. Their violet-to-purple hues sparkle against damp stone walls. During any season, you’ll find lush green moss-covered sandstone and lichen-speckled bluffs. Your greatest challenge on this hike might just be keeping your footing as you gaze up, entranced by the beauty.
Access to this jewel of a place used to be difficult and limited to strong, long-distance hiking legs. The Ozark Highlands Trail Association (OHTA) held a weeklong work camp in March of 2011 and built a .6 mile spur trail that connects to the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) just west of the Marinoni Scenic Area. You’re now able to hike a couple of miles and find yourself in one of the most beautiful places in Arkansas.
“Well worth a 3-hour drive,” says Dale Fudge, a hiker from Oklahoma City. Dale goes on to say, “The Marinoni Scenic Area is one of the most intimate and inspiring sections of the OHT. It’s secluded and packed full of dramatic landmarks. The area is now more accessible than before with the addition of the Dawna Robinson Spur Trail at Indian Creek, making for one of the best day hike opportunities in the entire region.”
It’s fitting that this area feels like a sanctuary and that it memorializes the lives of two special individuals. Paul A. Marinoni was from Fayetteville and was involved in volunteer efforts with Tim Ernst’s father. Tim, renowned outdoor photographer and author of the Ozark Highlands Trail Guide says, “My dad had his first heart attack when I was only six, so he was unable to take me to the woods like he would have wanted to. When I was seven, I began spending a lot of time with Paul Marinoni, hunting and camping during annual retreats into the woods. Paul was a real character, one of the most down-to-earth and honest people you would ever meet.” Given Tim’s sentiments, it seemed proper to name this area after a man who influenced others to appreciate the Ozarks.
The short trail allowing us to enter this natural area is named in memory of Dawna Robinson. Dawna and her husband, Bob, spent years maintaining sections of the OHT. She was well known for her love of the trail and her desire to share it with others. “When the new Indian Creek Spur Trail was first proposed, Dawna’s spirited personality and dedication came to mind as a fitting tribute to memorialize how the entire trail came into existence through the hard work and perseverance of volunteers,” says Mike Lemaster, President of the OHTA.
In many ways the Marinoni Scenic Area reflects qualities of these two lives. Sitting at the edge of Briar Creek, you’d think these bluffs had always been as they appear today but this valley was shaped by centuries of water and ice. There’s an honesty and straightforwardness in its beauty. Giant rocks stand like monuments of strength where they folded down to the creek years ago. Although fragile, there’s a sense of permanence here and although subtle, the beauty is deep and unmistakable in any season.
If you’ve never visited the Marinoni Scenic Area, it’s an experience not to be missed. If you have hiked the area, you will want to return again and experience an even deeper appreciation of its beauty. So, lace up your walking shoes! Let’s go visit an Arkansas natural cathedral and pause there as it becomes our own special place of sanctuary and reflection.
Getting there: From Hwy 23 just north of Cass, turn onto Hwy 215 east. Travel 7.4 miles to Indian Creek Canoe Launch and OHT Access. The trail is on the north side of Hwy 215 and begins at an opening in the fence directly across from the Indian Creek OHT Access sign. The spur trail is marked with 2×6-inch blue metal blazes. You’ll hike .6-miles to the OHT and then turn right, hiking another 2 miles to the Marinoni Scenic Area marker at the base of a bluff. Hiking out-and-back gives you approximately 5.2 miles. With a shuttle you can hike through to the Lick Branch Trailhead which will be a 5-mile hike and cover even more scenery.
For more information:
Ozark Highlands Trail Association ozarkhighlandstrail.com
Ozark Highland Trail Association Facebook page
Ozark Highlands Trail Guide by Tim Ernst
Ozarkmountainhiker 