One Good Trail is Enough

Posted on April 10, 2016 by ozarkmountainhiker

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It had been several months since I checked my little adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. My last two visits were in July and then again in September. Mike LeMaster cut a number of trees off of the trail in July and then Steven Parker did some more chainsaw work recently. I’ve had some expert help in maintaining this trail!

Mile marker close to Dockery’s Gap

This little piece of the OHT has become special to me. It runs from Old Locke Road (FR 1007) at the Dockery’s Gap Trailhead, west to a campsite next to Jack Creek at mile-5 of the OHT.

When the new Lake Fort Smith State Park was being built, this piece of trail was abandoned, and the beginning of the OHT was at Dockery’s Gap. I liked hiking the closed trail and marked sections with survey tape to make the route easier to follow. Sometimes I’d saw small trees off the trail to keep it passable. When this section of trail reopened around 2008 after the completion of the new state park, I adopted the 4-mile section.

Jack Creek

About three years ago, I realized just how strong my sense of ownership was when I discovered that some campers had trashed a special spot on the trail. I cleaned it up while cursing under my breath. I describe this incident in Jack Creek Criminals. It felt like a personal attack that someone would have so little respect for “my” section of the OHT!

Hiker enjoyed the trail and cool air.

Today, Hiker-dog and I walked from Dockery’s Gap to Lake Fort Smith State Park where my wife, Becca, would meet us. Wildflowers were popping, creeks were flowing, and the sun was shining through cool, crisp air. It was a magical day and every step held beauty. I felt like I barely knew this trail as if hiking it for the first time.

Mayapples hide under umbrella-like leaves

Sometimes I’ll say, “I’ve done the OHT,” meaning I’ve hiked the 180 miles from Lake Fort Smith to Tyler Bend. I’ve “done” the section from Dockery’s Gap to Lake Fort Smith many times. What I can’t say is “I know this trail.” Today taught me that I never “know” a trail. Each mile has something new to offer every time I walk it. My life would be plenty full with just this little stretch of Ozarks landscape. One good trail is enough!

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As I approached Lake Fort Smith, I met a hiker from Joplin. It was his first time on the OHT, and he was pleased with his new map. I enjoyed telling him that he was standing on the section adopted by Kristian Underwood, the cartographer responsible for the OHT maps.

Map by Underwood Geographics

Below are a few photos from today’s hike.

Hiker unsuccessfully seeking a mole.

Hiker-dog inspecting a very clean campsite at Jack Creek. The group was from Kansas City, MO.

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I enjoyed giving out a couple of bookmarks with Hiker-dog’s “signature.”

Wild iris on the trail

Looking into Jack Creek drainage and the mountain ridge on the other side with new leaves on the hardwoods

Boulders broken by time and the elements

Crossing Frog Bayou that feeds Lake Fort Smith

I’ll end with a few photos of history along the trail approaching Lake Fort Smith and next to the lake.

Built to last

Leaky bucket

Shepherd Spring

Any ideas on the make and model?

There’s always a plan-B in the Ozarks

Posted on March 12, 2016 by ozarkmountainhiker

Senyard Falls

I’d planned to hike Hare Mountain today. As I began climbing a muddy East Fly Gap Road with my two-wheel drive vehicle, I imagined my wife riding along with Hiker and me. At the moment I could imagine her getting concerned, I decided to turn around.

In the Ozarks, a plan-B is always available. I decided to visit the nearby Senyard Falls, named for Roy Senyard who maintains this section of the OHT and has been involved in trail maintenance for years. Roy is a strong guy, so it’s appropriate that the paths leading to his waterfall involve some tough scrambling, especially when conditions are wet.

There was a light rain, so I avoided having my camera out except for a few quick photos. I look forward to returning to this waterfall and seeing it from below. I couldn’t resist trying to capture a spider web next to the trail above the falls. It was easy to see why a camera could become wet quickly in this morning drizzle.

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As Hiker-dog and I headed back upstream, we stopped for a break at a crossing.

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While sitting beside the stream, I noticed Hiker looking quite pensive. I began to watch her, wondering what was going on in that little head of hers. I don’t know if dogs are capable of prayer, but I’m pretty sure Hiker was demonstrating a sense of gratitude for what she was seeing and experiencing on this drizzly morning. Or, maybe she was just spotting a squirrel in the distance.

IMG_1499rr I wonder if Hiker remembers her time of starvation and being alone in the woods before she joined our family. She does seem to appreciate everything about her life now, and she’s wildly excited when we go hiking.

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I paused to appreciate the bluff below the Cherry Bend Trailhead as we climbed back toward Hwy 23.

After driving south on Hwy 23, then east on 215, we did some hiking on the Redding Loop. While taking photos of the lower falls that were not running strongly, I noticed these fungi on a limb at my feet.

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Hiker and I both enjoyed walking through the pine and cedar groves on the Redding Loop.

I’ve admired a long rock wall close to the trailhead. Today we decided to go off the trail for a closer look. The craftsmanship was obvious from a distance and confirmed on closer inspection.

Rock wall close to the Redding Loop Trailhead

We made a quick stop at Turner Bend for a turkey sandwich. The ladies behind the counter always try to guess my order. I usually fake them out with my ham or turkey decision, but they know I’m going to ask for the “whole garden.” Love those veggies!

Turner Bend Waterfall

We were driving away when I noticed that the falls next to Turner Bend were still flowing. Had to stop for a photo before heading home. Hiker slept in her crate, content and happy after her morning in the woods.

Trail Work in July?

Posted on July 19, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

A few weeks ago I was appalled to find some major tree blowdowns on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I’ve bragged that since my section follows the Jack Creek drainage, it’s protected from winds and ice. We weren’t so lucky this time.

From the pattern of downed trees, a microburst must have passed through a portion of the area and dipped into my quiet little valley. Large trees fell like dominoes, some across the trail.

Mike LeMaster and I decided to work this section from Dockery Gap (approx. mile 10.5) west to around mile 6. Out-and-back, this came to around 9 miles with numerous stops to cut and clear. Mike likes doing some trail maintenance in the summer to stay in shape for the busier maintenance and hiking months in the fall. We got a good workout on this day!

Mike cutting the first tree encountered.

We found several large trees across the trail between mile 9 and 10, but this wasn’t the worst of it.

Before photo: Typical “blowdown” encountered on the trail.

This was the scene in several spots on the trail. We first had to determine the trail route through multiple downed trees and then Mike began to do his chainsaw magic. My job as “swamper” was to pull stuff off of the trail and stay out of the way.

After

Large oaks toppled head-high across the trail at one creek crossing.

This large trunk was head-high across the trail close to a creek crossing.

One of the things I asked Mike to agree to was that I carry the chainsaw. It was the least I could do after he sawed on this July day with a heat advisory in effect. I later learned that Mike was looking forward to a cool dip in Jack Creek at the far end of our maintenance route. I was looking forward to filtering a fresh batch of water (upstream from Mike) for our return hike to Dockery Gap. It was nice to cool off and unusual to have so much water in the creeks in July!

Jack Creek close to mile 6

I want to say a big thank you to Mike for braving the heat and helping me with my section of trail. As a board member of the Ozark Highlands Trail Association (volunteer position), he takes a hands-on approach to leadership! It felt good to walk back through the areas we’d cleared earlier. While working this section, I concocted a plan to backpack from Lake Fort Smith to White Rock Mountain and on to Fane Creek in the fall. Can’t wait to see this area again….in cooler temps!

Mike, a master sawyer!

A Rainy Day on the Ozark Highlands Trail and My Least Favorite Camera

Posted on June 14, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Summer thunderstorm clouds today.

Recent heavy rains combined with some wind caused tree blowdowns on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I’d always bragged that my section was pretty easy to maintain because it’s down in the protective Jack Creek drainage, but my luck ran out this time.

Mike, friend and expert sawyer, was planning to do some cutting, and I was going to “swamp” (clear out what he cut). Rain meant chainsaw work wasn’t an option so I decided to take Hiker-dog and survey the damage, cutting what we could with my little handsaw. We found several trees across the trail, and I noted locations, but the real pleasure was in taking a few photos in between thunderstorms throughout the day.

This cone flower next to the trail was drinking in the sunshine on a mostly cloudy day.

cone flower

Hiker was excited about spending a whole day on the trail. She likes the water, so rain was no problem. She only jumped when a loud of clap of thunder surprised us while working. When we stopped at Jack Creek for a break, she did a little grooming.

We came upon a little friend hanging out on a log across the trail. I paused for a photo. Hiker-dog was focused on squirrels and never noticed the snake up above.

Because of the rain and plans to do maintenance, I left my good camera at home. But, I ended up seeing a few things that needed to be captured so my cellphone filled in. Since there’s no reception down in the Jack Creek valley, I kept my phone turned off and stowed in a water-proof bag until needed as a camera.

I enjoyed the challenge of taking photos using what I consider my least favorite camera, the cell phone. We were soaked through and through, but it was a beautiful day on the trail.

Quick word about trail maintenance: Adopting a section of trail is a great way to help keep it open. Visit the Ozark Highlands Trail Association or other trail groups in your region to get involved. Below is a picture from before and after I did a little work with a handsaw.

Before saw work.

After some sawing and hauling.

Trail Maintenance – A High Paying Job

Posted on November 9, 2014 by ozarkmountainhiker

We take a break and refill our water at the Jack Creek west camp site.

We took a break and refilled our water at the Jack Creek west camp site.

This Stihl hedge trimmer pictured above works well with small woody growth encroaching on the trail. I checked it out from the Ozark Highlands Trail Association to use on my adopted four-mile section. The Stihl website shows this being used to trim hedges, hence the name. I wonder if Stihl realizes this is a favorite tool for trail work in Arkansas.

Hiker wasn’t impressed with the tool. After about five hours, she began to pause and bark as if to say, “Why don’t you quit playing with that and pick up your pace.” We covered four miles out-and-back for a total of eight. That would typically be a four-hour walk. We got started at 8:00 a.m. and finished at 4:20 p.m.

Practice “Leave no Trace” so I don’t have to pack out your trash.

Hiker carries some food in her pack. She packs out any trash we find. She ended the day with an empty plastic bottle, a tin can, and a few candy wrappers. I wonder how litterbugs would feel, knowing that a sweet dog like Hiker is cleaning up after them.

I feel a sense of pride when “my section” of the Ozark Highlands Trail is in good shape. I would recommend trail adoption to all hikers. It’s satisfying work and a way to ensure that trails will be available for future hikers. It’s also a good workout. I always end a maintenance day feeling like I’ve been highly paid for my work. To see some of those who make the OHT possible, read In Praise of Trail Maintainers/Volunteers.

Bear Creek at the trail crossing.

Just being here is a cause for thanksgiving. Another cause for thanksgiving is the meal my creative wife prepares. Good food and company after trail maintenance is the best!

In Praise of Trail Maintainers/Volunteers!

Posted on January 2, 2014 by ozarkmountainhiker

On a recent hike of the first 125 miles of the Ozark Highland Trail I was reminded of the importance of trail maintainers/volunteers. We saw evidence of some great work that has been done over recent months and years.

Then I returned to my “home trail” and what I saw really amazed me. Volunteers had obviously descended on the Lake Alma Trail and done their magic. Following recent ice it was difficult to make it around the four-mile loop but today I enjoyed a relaxing hike, noticing evidence of trail work at every turn.

Volunteers are the reason we’re able to hike the beautiful trails of Arkansas! As a novice hiker I assumed that trails rarely needed attention. A few years ago I tried to hike a small neglected trail and realized the impact of volunteer trail maintainers. Now, as an experienced hiker and occasional trail volunteer myself, I know the value of the work done and the satisfaction derived by doing trail maintenance or trail building.

If you’ve never participated in a trail workday, I would encourage you to try it. You’ll enjoy a good workout and end the day with a deep sense of satisfaction and service to the wilderness and your fellow hikers. Thank you volunteers!

Chopping trail out of the hillside.

Lunch break under a beautiful bluff overlooking Indian Creek.

Duane, engineer and volunteer, looking at trail grade.

Building the Dawna Robinson Spur Trail.

Dale building a trail he would then adopt to maintain, the Dawna Robinson Indian Creek Spur Trail.

Keeping trail volunteers fed is a big job!

OHTA Crew on Hare Mountain

Lunch break

Enjoying fellowship and the satisfaction of a good day’s work in the Hare Mountain area. Left to Right: Mike Lemaster, President of the OHTA, Bob Robinson, Chris Adams, and Roy Senyard, Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the OHTA.

Volunteers picking up trash on the Lake Alma Trail

Harry McWater, the driving force behind building the Lake Alma Trail, visiting with volunteers.

Cleaning up the Lake Alma Trail.

Arkansas Master Naturalists helping with trail building.

Volunteers in the Marinoni Scenic Area of the Ozark Highlands Trail

Roy Senyard, Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the Ozark Highlands Trail.

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Joe, clearing the Lake Alma Trail.

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Cliff, building some new trail at Lake Alma.

Volunteers having breakfast before working in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness of the Ozark Highlands Trail.

Mary is one hard worker when it comes to trail maintenance! She is shown here on the back porch of Mirkwood Cabin during a work trip on the OHT.

Using crosscut saws in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness

Using crosscut saws in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness

Bob Robinson, a “heavy lifter” when it comes to trail maintenance.

New tread being tested after recent side-hilling work.

Steven Parker, right, became Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the OHTA in 2015.

Yard Work in God’s Backyard

Posted on April 21, 2013 by ozarkmountainhiker

Lake Alma Trail mile marker 3.5

While working on a local trail this morning, Clifford, a fellow volunteer said, “When I tell people what I’m doing out here, they think I’m crazy! But I love it.” Exercise, fresh air, beautiful surroundings, and good fellowship, all for free. We both agreed it was nice to do yard work in God’s back yard.

Clifford doing some side-hilling on the Lake Alma Trail.

As we continued our work, Clifford stopped, looked at his watch, and commented that he had just met his Arkansas Master Naturalists certification requirement of 40 volunteer hours. About 30-minutes later we reached our stopping point for the day. We walked the short section several times commenting on the difference our work had made.

Little Frog Bayou

I continued around the trail with Pulaski in hand to chop out several little stubs I’d been noticing on my daily walks. As I hiked along thinking of many workdays on this trail since March of 2012, I began to realize what a wonderful treasure we have here.

I experienced a sense of deep gratification and thought of the thousands of steps that have already been taken on this trail. Some of our local hikers, especially children, got their start on this trail. The Lake Alma Trail is having an impact on the health of our community. I know it has benefited my own health and wellbeing.

I began to think of some of the trail volunteers I’ve worked with and how committed they are to making hiking trails available to others. Working with them has given me a new appreciation for every step I take on a trail.

Here’s a short list of reasons to volunteer to do trail building and maintenance.

1. Trail work is good exercise – It is a full body workout for sure. No gym charges and no gym smells.

2. Good fellowship – Great chance to work with good people.

3. Satisfaction – Tangible results from work is rewarding. It is nice to hike a section of trail where you’ve done some work.

4. Trail work blurs the lines between work and recreation. Nice to have an activity that you can frame any way that suits you. If you want others to think you have a strong work ethic, tell them you’re doing trail work. They don’t have to know how much you enjoy it.

5. Building or maintaining trails is a way to express your gratitude for creation and share the beauty with others. A well built trail allows many caring eyes to view an area and increase the likelihood that it will be protected.

If you want to be a trail volunteer, how do you get started?

1. Place a small trash bag in your pack and pick up any trash you see on the trails.

2. Occasionally hike with loppers and cut limbs back that brush against you as you hike. Kick rocks off of the trail or drag small trees off the trail as you hike.

3. Be part of a volunteer work crew on a workday. All you need is lunch, water, and work gloves. You might want your own loppers but most tools are provided.

4. Join a hiking community. If you’re in Arkansas, the Ozark Highlands Trail Association (OHTA) or Friends of the Ouachita Trail (FoOT) are great places to make contact for volunteer opportunities. Membership is inexpensive and your money goes to maintaining trails. Go to the Lake Alma Trail Facebook page to volunteer on a local community trail here in western Arkansas.

Nice place for a break on the Lake Alma Trail.

Jack Creek Criminals on the Ozark Highlands Trail

Posted on December 2, 2012 by ozarkmountainhiker

As I hiked east from Dockery Gap to check my section of trail a dad and his four sons approached from the opposite direction. They had a haggard and disheveled look as they lumbered up the trail loaded down with one-gallon plastic milk jugs filled with cloudy water and overloaded backpacks. One of the sons carried a rifle presumably for protection from wild bears.

The gun made me nervous, but I relaxed when the dad spoke. He explained that they had camped at Jack Creek with plans to hike to White Rock Mountain, but now they were wondering how to hike out and where they might get cell phone service to call mom to come get them. I took my map out and showed them the road they were approaching and how to walk toward civilization. They explained that their water filter wasn’t working correctly, hence the murky water jugs. They’d not slept well, were overheated and exhausted. As I continued down the trail, I thought they’d made the right decision in exiting the forest.

Approaching Jack Creek less than a mile later, I saw smoke and a burning campfire. There was a hammock tied between two trees next to the creek and trash everywhere. Thinking someone must still be occupying the site I called out, but there was no response. It gradually dawned on me that this was the camp left by my exhausted friends who’d just asked for directions. I extinguished the fire, kicking a large aerosol can of insect spray out of the coals and then collected the trash.

I continued down the trail picking up more trash at each creek crossing. It appeared that these young men and their dad deposited trash at every rest stop. After doing a little maintenance I returned to the trashy camp, scattered the now cooled fire ring, and bagged the trash I’d collected earlier. Then I noticed scaring on a tree next to the creek where they had chopped it with an ax for no apparent reason. This began to feel like a crime scene.

Some of the trash collected at the site. Notice the burned aerosol can.

I had visions of driving up on these fellows as they walked along the road and what I would like to say but then considered the rifle and thought a more diplomatic approach might be best. As I hiked up the trail away from the scene of the crime, I rehearsed the discussion I would have about the beauty of the Ozark National Forest and how important it is that we care for it and pass it on to our children. I wished for words to help these men discover a better way to treat the wilderness but, in reality, it seemed futile to try to convert remorseless criminals who enter the forest for recreation and harm it by their very presence.

As it turned out, by the time I arrived at the trailhead to throw my bag of trash in the Jeep, the father and his sons were nowhere to be seen. I do wish I could have that conversation, but I take comfort in the knowledge that I probably witnessed the conclusion of their first and last backpacking trip on the Ozark Highlands Trail. If I just had some assurance that they don’t have access to four-wheelers I’d feel a whole lot better.

Ozarkmountainhiker

Hiking, photography, and words

Tag Archives: trail maintenance

One Good Trail is Enough

There’s always a plan-B in the Ozarks

Trail Work in July?

A Rainy Day on the Ozark Highlands Trail and My Least Favorite Camera

Trail Maintenance – A High Paying Job

In Praise of Trail Maintainers/Volunteers!

Yard Work in God’s Backyard

Jack Creek Criminals on the Ozark Highlands Trail

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