Vintage Backpacking

During a recent maintenance camp with the Ozark Highlands Trail Association (OHTA), Duane Woltjen, gave me a Gerry Backpack manufactured in the 1960s. He shared that he used this pack in addition to three others for family adventures with his wife, Judy, and two sons.

Duane is a retired engineer, designer and builder of trails, and a longtime volunteer with the OHTA. During our discussion, he was busily cutting and drilling blazes for use as Ozark Highlands Trail markers.

When I tried that pack on, I decided it should see a few more trail miles. Since this would be a shakedown hike in anticipation of longer hikes to come this fall, I decided to do a simple over-nighter starting at the beginning of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Good friend, Eric Scowden, joined us, us being Hiker-dog and me.

I found the following note in the top compartment while loading the pack.

On the morning we departed from Lake Fort Smith State Park, I asked Eric to snap a photo to share with Duane so he could see the pack in use again.

Our destination was a new campsite location on Jack Creek. To reduce impact close to the creek shoreline, volunteers with the OHTA and Pack Rat Outdoor Center relocated the campsite to a nearby hillside. This site was a short walk from water and offered visual barrier from the trail.

Hiker-dog and home on the trail

While exploring the area, we found another nice campsite farther up the hill that could be an overflow location in case a group is already in the area we used.

There was ample room for several tents. Eric found an ideal spot and built a small fire in the established fire ring.

Evening temperatures made for good campfire conversation and affection time for Hiker-dog. She curled up in leaves close to my tent and remained quiet even when we heard coyotes and owl calls in the distance. Hiker-dog’s around twelve years old but still loves getting out on the trail. A couple of years ago, I wrote the story of our meeting in a little book called Gift From the Ozarks.

Hiker-dog begging for a snack from Eric

We had a great hike and I enjoyed carrying a pack that dated back to the beginning of backpacking’s popularity in the United States. I also found myself thinking of the beauty this pack took Duane’s family to see as he and his wife, Judy, built their family and formed strong bonds of love that serve as an example for others. Thanks to Duane for taking good care of this pack and passing it along to me so I can reflect on the significance of getting outside with family and friends.

Backpacking Preparation 2: Trails Renewed

Chris enjoying the view along White Rock Mountain Loop

Trail maintenance in the Ozarks is difficult, especially after a wet summer. In September, volunteers begin clearing trails for hiking and backpacking season. The work is hard and often done in the heat. This post sings the praises of volunteers with the Ozark Highlands Trail Association. They view trail maintenance as part of backpacking preparation, and love of the Ozarks!

Small pool on White Rock Creek

Some maintainers carry water filters since, even when conditions are dry, pockets of water might be found in reliable creeks. White Rock Creek pictured above flows most of the year, but on this trip, water trickled between pools.

Lunch break

Here’s a video clip showing the work done with hedge trimmers and weed eaters.

Clearing vegetation with a hedge trimmer head on a weedeater.

Trail work is slow but satisfying.

Volunteers enjoy walking back to vehicles on newly opened trail.

The Shores Lake/White Rock Loop is one of the nation’s great backpacking loop trails and is open, so get out and enjoy fresh trail maintenance! While you’re out there, give the trail some love by leaving no trace of your passing. If you come across someone working on a trail, give them a word of thanks and consider joining them in the future. It will increase your appreciation for all the trails you walk.

White Rock Mountain

Never the Same Trail Twice

IMG_6521rr

Nick and Hiker-dog crossing Frog Bayou

Hiking buddy, Nick, said he needed some time on the trail and wondered what section we might try. Hiker-dog had never done the few miles from Dockery Gap to White Rock Mountain, so we decided to do Lake Fort Smith State Park to Fane Creek, just over 30 miles.

This route included new miles for Nick and Hiker-dog but repeats for me. As we walked this familiar path, I remembered once again that we never walk the same trail twice.

IMG_6511rr

Nick checking out the fire bricks inside the remnants of one homesite along the trail.

IMG_6532rr Water was plentiful. This was my first filterless backpacking trip using only water treatment drops, so I enjoyed “selecting” my water from any number of small streams we passed.

IMG_6559rr

Little Hurricane Creek

IMG_6569rrWe met a family camped at mile 10. While visiting with the father, Luke, I was impressed with his two young daughters’ ability to run without pain barefoot through the woods.

The next day we met two backpackers, Nick and Foster, from Kansas who’d camped in the area and were continuing on the OHT the next day. As we approached White Rock Mountain, a young man with a group called out, “Is that Hiker-dog?” She’s such a celebrity. Turns out, Chris had picked up a copy of Five Star Trails: The Ozarks, and met Hiker-dog at the Hare Mountain Hike-In. We expected a social hike due to the time of year and enjoyed meeting good folks on the trail.

IMG_6556rr

For the first evening meal I boiled red potato slices a few minutes then added a Knorr side dish that cooked quickly. Good stuff!

On the second night at Salt Fork Creek, I used instant potatoes combined with a slice of Spam. Quick, easy, and light.

IMG_6611rr

Hiker-dog enjoyed a nap early in our second evening as a soft rain began to fall. Stronger storms and a beautiful lightning show followed later during the night, although not enough to raise the level of Salt Fork or Spirits Creek by more than an inch. 

IMG_6651rr

Nick and Hiker-dog crossing Spirits Creek

As Nick crossed Spirits Creek, I thought back to my thru-hike with Bob a few years ago. A heavy rain raised the creek level enough to cause us to pay careful attention while crossing. Never the same trail twice…

Below is another example of how different the same trail can be depending on conditions. Early in our hike, the Shepherd Springs Waterfall was a trickle in bright sunshine. On a previous visit during a wet springtime day, I got one of my favorite photos of this same waterfall. Part of the pleasure of the OHT is repeated visits during varied conditions and seasons. In the Ozarks, just when you think you know a trail, you realize it has something new to reveal.

Word of thanks to Ozark Highlands Trail Association volunteers: The photo below right shows the obvious work of trail maintenance volunteers who hike in with chainsaws and cut out obstacles. The photo on the left shows a full day’s work by several volunteers although it would be easy to walk by without notice. At one time, water flowed across the trail continually washing it out and making this a difficult spot. Volunteers trenched an alternative route for the water, directing it away from the trail and toward a culvert that channels water under the adjacent road. They’d be proud of how well this erosion fix is working.

In Praise of Trail Maintainers/Volunteers!

On a recent hike of the first 125 miles of the Ozark Highland Trail I was reminded of the importance of trail maintainers/volunteers.  We saw evidence of some great work that has been done over recent months and years.

Then I returned to my “home trail” and what I saw really amazed me.  Volunteers had obviously descended on the Lake Alma Trail and done their magic.  Following recent ice it was difficult to make it around the four-mile loop but today I enjoyed a relaxing hike, noticing evidence of trail work at every turn.

Volunteers are the reason we’re able to hike the beautiful trails of Arkansas!  As a novice hiker I assumed that trails rarely needed attention.  A few years ago I tried to hike a small neglected trail and realized the impact of volunteer trail maintainers.  Now, as an experienced hiker and occasional trail volunteer myself, I know the value of the work done and the satisfaction derived by doing trail maintenance or trail building.

If you’ve never participated in a trail workday, I would encourage you to try it.  You’ll enjoy a good workout and end the day with a deep sense of satisfaction and service to the wilderness and your fellow hikers.  Thank you volunteers!

IMGP3202r

Chopping trail out of the hillside.

IMGP3178r

Lunch break under a beautiful bluff overlooking Indian Creek.

IMGP3081r

Duane, engineer and volunteer, looking at trail grade.

Building the Dawna Robinson Spur Trail.

Building the Dawna Robinson Spur Trail.

IMG_2777r

Dale building a trail he would then adopt to maintain, the Dawna Robinson Indian Creek Spur Trail.

IMGP3077r

IMGP3092r

Keeping trail volunteers fed is a big job!

IMGP7465

OHTA Crew on Hare Mountain

IMGP7481

Lunch break

IMGP7853rr

Enjoying fellowship and the satisfaction of a good day’s work in the Hare Mountain area. Left to Right: Mike Lemaster, President of the OHTA, Bob Robinson, Chris Adams, and Roy Senyard, Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the OHTA.

IMGP4104r

Volunteers picking up trash on the Lake Alma Trail

IMGP4110r

Harry McWater, the driving force behind building the Lake Alma Trail, visiting with volunteers.

IMGP4113r

Cleaning up the Lake Alma Trail.

IMG_5693

Arkansas Master Naturalists helping with trail building.

IMGP1039

Volunteers in the Marinoni Scenic Area of the Ozark Highlands Trail

roy

Roy Senyard, Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the Ozark Highlands Trail.

578129_407759932567508_100000005134210_1560803_720084863_n

Joe, clearing the Lake Alma Trail.

559627_414212651922236_100000005134210_1574935_149580487_n

Cliff, building some new trail at Lake Alma.

IMG_0743rr

Volunteers having breakfast before working in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness of the Ozark Highlands Trail.

IMG_0732rr

Mary is one hard worker when it comes to trail maintenance! She is shown here on the back porch of Mirkwood Cabin during a work trip on the OHT.

IMG_0788rr

Using crosscut saws in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness

IMG_0795rr

Using crosscut saws in the Hurricane Creek Wilderness

IMG_0827rr

Bob Robinson, a “heavy lifter” when it comes to trail maintenance.

IMG_0871rr

New tread being tested after recent side-hilling work.

IMG_2041

Steven Parker, right, became Trail Maintenance Coordinator for the OHTA in 2015.

IMG_0841rr IMG_0882rr IMG_2036