Exploring Upper Jack Creek in the Ozark National Forest

Posted on June 27, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Small cascade above a pool.

My reason for hiking down the upper section of the Jack Creek drainage on an old roadbed was to see if I could find an access point for my 4.3-mile section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I maintain from the Dockery Gap Trailhead west to the second Jack Creek Crossing. I carried my cellphone as a camera to save weight and avoid damaging my real camera while bushwhacking.

As often happens, the Ozark National Forest rewarded me with unanticipated beauty. As the upper Jack Creek flows toward the Ozark Highlands Trail, it carves its way through a high-walled canyon. The rock walls contain several rushing cascades. Hiker-dog and I enjoyed stopping along the creek for the views and to pick off ticks. Tis the season for ticks and such. I look forward to returning to this location with my real camera in fall or winter!

Pool on Jack Creek, tan from runoff of recent thunderstorms.

Hiker enjoying the water

Canyon walls next to Jack Creek

Evidence of old homestead next to Jack Creek

View upstream from the top of a rushing cascade.

A Rainy Day on the Ozark Highlands Trail and My Least Favorite Camera

Posted on June 14, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Summer thunderstorm clouds today.

Recent heavy rains combined with some wind caused tree blowdowns on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I’d always bragged that my section was pretty easy to maintain because it’s down in the protective Jack Creek drainage, but my luck ran out this time.

Mike, friend and expert sawyer, was planning to do some cutting, and I was going to “swamp” (clear out what he cut). Rain meant chainsaw work wasn’t an option so I decided to take Hiker-dog and survey the damage, cutting what we could with my little handsaw. We found several trees across the trail, and I noted locations, but the real pleasure was in taking a few photos in between thunderstorms throughout the day.

This cone flower next to the trail was drinking in the sunshine on a mostly cloudy day.

cone flower

Hiker was excited about spending a whole day on the trail. She likes the water, so rain was no problem. She only jumped when a loud of clap of thunder surprised us while working. When we stopped at Jack Creek for a break, she did a little grooming.

We came upon a little friend hanging out on a log across the trail. I paused for a photo. Hiker-dog was focused on squirrels and never noticed the snake up above.

Because of the rain and plans to do maintenance, I left my good camera at home. But, I ended up seeing a few things that needed to be captured so my cellphone filled in. Since there’s no reception down in the Jack Creek valley, I kept my phone turned off and stowed in a water-proof bag until needed as a camera.

I enjoyed the challenge of taking photos using what I consider my least favorite camera, the cell phone. We were soaked through and through, but it was a beautiful day on the trail.

Quick word about trail maintenance: Adopting a section of trail is a great way to help keep it open. Visit the Ozark Highlands Trail Association or other trail groups in your region to get involved. Below is a picture from before and after I did a little work with a handsaw.

Before saw work.

After some sawing and hauling.

On the Way and a Change of Plans: Hiking a Wet Marinoni Scenic Area

Posted on May 30, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Stream flowing over the top of Marinoni Falls

Hiking the Marinoni was my plan B today. Plan A was to check on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I got eleven miles east of Hwy 71 on Old Locke Road when I came upon a downed oak across the road. At first I thought my handsaw might be used to clear a single lane. After making a couple of cuts, I abandoned that idea. It was a chainsaw job. Hiker was restless and probably wondering what I was doing when we should be hiking. When we got back into cell range, I reported the tree and then headed to the Indian Creek Dawna Robinson Spur Trail east of Cass.

I’ve written about the Marinoni Scenic Area before, but I haven’t hiked it when water was flowing as strong as today. What could have easily been a two to three-hour hike was more like five with all of the photo stops. I felt thankful for that tree that changed my itinerary because the Marinoni was what I needed. Sometimes the best plan is plan B.

View of Marinoni Falls from a short distance.

Marinoni Falls

Small falls upstream from Marinoni Falls

I spent enough time around these falls that Hiker-dog got impatient. She begins to bark when she thinks I’ve had enough time at the camera. I noticed that she began to pause and glance my way each time we passed any flowing water as if anticipating a photo stop.

Hiker watching the trees for squirrels while waiting patiently.

I found it difficult to walk away from the Marinoni Falls. They provided an enjoyable time with my camera.

Small falls upstream from Marinoni Falls

The towering walls above Briar Branch seem to envelop you like cathedral walls.

The bluffs above Briar Branch

Bluffs above Briar Branch

Edge of bluff with Briar Branch in the distance down to the right of the trail

Cascade close to the Marinoni marker

Little cave next to the Marinoni marker

Large boulder across Briar Branch

I never hike this section without pausing to be amazed at the size of this boulder down next to the creek.

Crossing Briar Branch

Stone memorial for Dawna Robinson close to the trailhead

To read more about the Marinoni:

Making Time for Marinoni (includes driving directions to the trailhead)

Marinoni Revisited (Four Star Treatment)

Fall in the Marinoni

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “On the Way.”

A Familiar Trail in Unfamiliar Conditions

Posted on May 25, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Shepherd Spring Waterfall from the trail

I wanted to avoid flooded roads so Hiker-dog and I headed to Lake Fort Smith this morning. We hiked the Shepherd Spring Loop Trail and enjoyed hanging out at the waterfall and Shepherd Spring for a while.

Shepherd Spring Waterfall

This waterfall is about seven feet tall and rarely runs this strong. The water has a beautiful flow because of the stair step shapes in the rock.

I’d like to know the story behind this chimney located next to the trail and a short distance from Lake Fort Smith. Another chimney and Shepherd Spring are located along this section of trail.

This is a normally dry drainage that crosses the trail as it flows to the lake.

Shepherd Spring

Shepherd Spring always has water, but today it was flowing more heavily. The water storage tank no longer holds water so the water runs out at the base of the concrete wall.

Portions of Lake Fort Smith were covered in debris from a fast moving and flood level Frog Bayou. Fort Smith broke precipitation records in May dating back to the 1940s.

Frog Bayou

I got a view of Frog Bayou from the trail high above. There’s no crossing in this area. It’s difficult to appreciate the water levels and volume of flow off in the distance, but you couldn’t pay me to cross that creek at these levels. As high as the water is now, you can see areas down below the trail that were covered by rushing water recently.

Small drainage

I had a closer look at this small drain that runs along the trail where it intersects back onto the OHT close to the waterfall.

Had to laugh on my return trip when I noticed the waterfall sign. Seems unnecessary now but it serves a purpose during the dry season when you have to imagine what it might look like with water.

It was a great day to hike a familiar trail clothed in springtime wet season conditions.

Hiker was glad to get on the trail after several rainy days.

Exploring the Ozarks

Posted on April 1, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Rock House

Follow this link to the Do South Magazine to read my article, “Exploring the Ozarks.” I enjoy writing for Do South because it’s a beautiful publication with a diverse readership. Their managing editor is an excellent writer and encouraging to others. My article begins on page 48 (p. 50 of the digital version).

Exploring the Ozarks

Thanks for reading!

Jim Warnock

Weeky Photo Challenge: Ephemeral – Momentary beauty of frost flowers

Posted on March 27, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Ephemeral.”

Frost flower next to the Ozark Highlands Trail in Arkansas.

This little heart-shaped frost flower was next to the Ozark Highlands Trail on a winter’s hike. It would be gone within a few minutes as sunshine peeked over the sharp edge of a nearby mountain to the east.

Though these small ephemeral gifts do not last, I have the privilege of carrying them in my memory and sharing them through my camera.

frost flower

Mary Oliver’s words come to mind often on the trail.

I’m thankful for the “task” of carrying these small gifts with me as I continue down the trail. Thank you for allowing me to share.

Haiku in the Ozarks

Posted on March 21, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Four-star hotel and gourmet coffee next to Briar Branch

Five-star hotel and gourmet coffee next to Briar Branch

“TJ’s Household Haiku Challenge”

Black coffee on stone.

Table set for the day in

My five-star hotel.

This cup travels with me always, a favorite outdoor household item. On this cold morning, sitting next to Briar Branch in the Marinoni Scenic Area on the Ozark Highlands Trail, I felt intense thankfulness. I was thankful for the morning, the water, the coffee, and the strength that brought me there. How could I want for anything more while enjoying these five-star accommodations?

Redding Loop Trail waterfall

Hard rains have fallen.

Waterfalls flow milky white.

Sit silent and drink.

This extra Haiku came as I thought about last week’s waterfalls. No household item here unless we allow my camera to qualify. It sits in a prominent location in my home, always charged and ready for the trail.

A Waterfall Day on Redding Loop and Spirits Creek

Posted on March 14, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

With rain following a recent snow, I decided it was time to revisit a couple of waterfalls I’ve wanted to see for a while. The first one is on Redding Loop Trail. I’ve hiked this loop trail many times but never when water was flowing. There are two waterfalls, but this was the one I wanted to see based on the formation of the bluff and rocky drainage below the falls. I was not disappointed!

Redding Loop Trail waterfall

I spent several minutes photographing the waterfall. Hiker finally had all she could take and began barking for me to get moving. I must be a puzzle to her when I stand at a tripod with a small black box on top for a while for no apparent reason.

Hiker is easily entertained. She has a recurring desire to crawl inside of a log. I think she must hear something inside raising her curiosity.

On our way back to the trailhead, I couldn’t resist spending a couple of minutes next to a small glade area that crosses the trail.

White Rock Mountain Road

After doing part of Redding Loop, the big adventure began. I drove up White Rock Mountain Road with the knowledge that my plans might change at any curve. I cleared large limbs off of the road in two spots and crossed some sections of road that were so muddy I wasn’t sure I would pass all the way through.

I had considered adding Spirits Creek as an out-and-back hike in my trail guide, but today’s drive convinced me that this route doesn’t belong in a day hike trail guide. It’s a great destination for experienced hikers, dirt road drivers, and OHT thru-hikers.

Gray Spring shelter built by the CCC.

I’ve driven past Gray Spring several times, but today it was time to stop and admire the work of the depression era Citizens Conservation Corps. It appears that Gray Spring is being maintained by the US Forest Service. On the day I visited, the area was clean following a recent controlled burn.

The rock work has stood the test of time and is still functional today. The spring is located uphill above White Rock Mountain Road and flows past Gray Spring picnic area, eventually feeding into Spirits Creek. If you’re looking for a place for a quiet picnic, Gray Spring fits the bill.

Gray Spring picnic area.

Big fire pit

Spring up above White Rock Mt. Road

I’d like to learn more about the spring itself. This pipe ran from farther up the hill, but we decided not to explore any higher on the muddy hillside. The concrete cover appeared to be disconnected from the water source.

spring cover

View from the CCC Gray Spring shelter.

Ragtown Road TH for the OHT heading west.

We continued up White Rock Mountain Road for a short distance past Gray Spring and then took a right onto Ragtown Road to the trailhead. We followed the Ozark Highlands Trail down a couple of benches into the Spirits Creek valley.

We passed through a section with lots of devil’s walking sticks that usually indicate a compromised canopy and sure enough, you could see that things were pretty open in that area. Compliments to the trail maintainers for this section. It was in good shape. After the walking stick section, we entered a more open and healthy hardwood forest with little streams everywhere, including the middle of the trail. We just stomped along looking forward to Spirits Creek.

Spirits Creek falls

I have a photo of this waterfall from my thru-hike of the OHT over Christmas of 2013. That photo was done hurriedly after crossing a swollen Spirits Creek due to hard rains the night before. I camped at Spirits Creek again in the last year, but it wasn’t flowing so I was excited to be here today and spent some time with this waterfall. Hiker explored nooks and crannies of the bluffs behind the waterfalls. I was envious.

Spirits Creek falls

Noticed some white trout lilies in the moist hillsides around Spirits Creek. Their scientific name is Erythronium albidum. I don’t know plants well, but enjoy rediscovering the names I can’t remember from year to year. I hope I’ve identified this one correctly.

Spirits Creek

A favorite spot on Spirits Creek.

After the hike, we took the slow and muddy 5-mile drive east on White Rock Mountain Road to AR 23. Then we turned south for a delicious sandwich at Turner Bend Store. Hiker enjoyed making new friends and having a little snack of lunch meat from the Turner Bend crew.

Directions to Ragtown Road Trailhead for Spirits Creek access: Drive 0.6 mile south of Cass watching for White Rock Mountain Road. Drive west on White Rock Mt. Rd. for 4.2 miles, then stay right. Reset the odometer. Drive 0.8 miles farther and watch for Gray Springs down on the left. At 1.3 miles, turn right onto Ragtown Road (Forest Road 1509). The trailhead is about 0.7 miles on Ragtown Road.

Directions to Redding Loop Trail: Just north of Cass, turn onto AR 215 east. Drive 2.7 miles east and past the Redding Campground entrance. Drive a short distance (maybe 0.2 mile) beyond the campground entrance and turn right onto a gravel road that will lead you almost immediately to the trailhead.

Favorite Old Trails With a Favorite New Friend

Posted on March 7, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Had a great day sharing some favorite old trails with my “new” hiking buddy, found on the Ozark Highlands Trail in January of 2014.

Shores Lake to White Rock Mountain Loop Trail is one of my all time favorites in Arkansas. I’ve done it as a day and overnighter many times. Part of the attraction might be its proximity to Alma, but the real attraction for me is the water, scenic valleys, and the visual payoff of passing by White Rock Mountain. It dawned on me that Hiker-dog had never done any of this trail, so we decided to remedy this and drive through the little community of Fern to Shores Lake.

I’m working on a trail guide and decided a few months ago that this entire loop trail would not fit the book’s criteria for a typical day hike. However, the first section of the West Loop fits beautifully. The plan was to get GPS readings from Shores Lake to the White Rock Falls and then drive up to the White Rock Mountain Loop Trail. These two trails together gave us about 8 miles for the day (or maybe 10-12 for Hiker since she does a lot of off-trail sprinting).

Cascade at Bliss Spring

We met up with a delightful group of Boy Scouts at the Bliss Spring crossing. They were taking care of the environment and obviously had strong adult leadership for their troop.

Little Roaring Falls

White Rock Creek was flowing. We left Hiker’s pack and my hiking poles on the trail and scrambled down (no trail here) to check out the Little Roaring Falls. “Little Roaring Falls” is my name for this waterfall because you’ll hear a low roar as you approach. Hiker loved this spot and took the opportunity to explore over, under, and around the falls. She also had a good swim below the falls.

Hiker exploring Little Roaring Falls

I wished for a cloud cover, but it was a crystal clear day making for less than ideal photography lighting.

White Rock Falls

We continued down the trail, arriving at White Rock Falls at 2.8 miles. We returned to Shores Lake for a roundtrip hike of about 5.6 miles; a perfect day hike!

Hiker taking in the view of White Rock Creek as we returned to Shores Lake.

Other than the scout group, we passed by a nice couple from Little Rock and then saw another couple beginning their hike as we finished. I remembered Tim Ernst’s comment during his photo presentations, “The Ozark Highlands Trail is Arkansas’ best-kept secret!”

Great trail maintenance work was done in early fall on this trail. Because of the loss of parts of the tree canopy in areas, maintenance can be challenging, and it’s a tribute to the volunteers of the OHTA who maintain this trail. Check the OHTA website for trail maintenance dates. Good fellowship and good work! ozarkhighlandstrail.com

We drove up to the Top of White Rock Mountain to hike the 2-mile loop trail. It had been several years since I did this loop on a foggy day, so this was like a brand new hike to me.

The sign saying to keep an eye on your children gave me pause. I guess Hiker-dog could be thought of as a child at less than two years old, but between the two of us, I was more likely to fall. In fact, children suffer falls less often than adults. Maybe this sign should read, “Children, keep an eye on your parents.” I decided Hiker would be careful around these high bluffs.

Ice on the east side of White Rock Mountain

Some massive ice flows covered portions of bluffs, especially those protected from the sun. Some snow remained on the east side of the trail but it was now a slush and safe for walking.

West side of White Rock Mountain

It took a while to walk this short loop trail. Found myself gawking at views every step of the way. If you do this hike, glance at the trail often to ensure you don’t go over the edge while being entranced by the views. Thank you to the volunteers in the Ozark Highlands Trail Association for trail maintenance! I saw a lot of evidence of work done last fall.

Hiker-dog and I would like to spend a few days camping on White Rock Mountain and exploring this loop with my camera in different light and at different times of the day. Rustic cabins close to the trailhead are nice options, too, but Hiker is definitely an outside dog!

West side of White Rock Mountain

White Rock Mt.

Shelter on the southwest side of White Rock Mt.

Getting there:

Shores Lake Campground – Take Exit 24 from I-40 and drive north on AR 215 for 9 miles to Fern. Follow AR 215 right at 9.4 miles. At 12.2 miles, drive straight off of AR 215 onto Bliss Ridge Road. Turn right into the Shores Lake Campground at 13.6 miles. The trailhead is at the north side of the campground.

White Rock Mountain Loop – Continue past Shores Lake Campground on Bliss Ridge Road (dirt) for 4 miles then turn left onto White Rock Mountain Road. After 2.2 miles, turn right and drive the final 1 mile up to White Rock Mountain. Continue past the White Rock Mountain Campground, caretaker’s residence, and cabins. The White Rock Mountain Loop Trailhead is at the end of the road. Total distance from I-40 is approximately 21 miles.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Campfire “Reward”

Posted on February 28, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Reward.”

After hiking in the snow today, I was reminded of what a “reward” a warm campfire is at the end of a cold winter’s day.

Pasta dinner.

A hot dinner cooked over the fire is one of life’s simple pleasures and a just “reward” for miles traveled.

Time with friends around the campfire is a great way to end the day on the Ozark Highlands Trail.

Ozarkmountainhiker

Hiking, photography, and words

Tag Archives: Ozark Highlands Trail

Exploring Upper Jack Creek in the Ozark National Forest

A Rainy Day on the Ozark Highlands Trail and My Least Favorite Camera

On the Way and a Change of Plans: Hiking a Wet Marinoni Scenic Area

A Familiar Trail in Unfamiliar Conditions

Exploring the Ozarks

Weeky Photo Challenge: Ephemeral – Momentary beauty of frost flowers

Haiku in the Ozarks

A Waterfall Day on Redding Loop and Spirits Creek

Favorite Old Trails With a Favorite New Friend

Weekly Photo Challenge: Campfire “Reward”

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