Devil’s Canyon in Fern, AR

Grant taking a photo from a Devil’s Canyon overlook

Saint John’s Episcopal Church in Fort Smith organizes day hikes open to all. The group calls itself Edge Walkers. I’ve visited this beautiful church and decided to join the group’s hike in Devil’s Canyon, located a little over seven miles north of I-40 on Hwy 215.

John capturing a video

While saving photos, I noticed several other trails I’ve hiked with Devil in the name. Seems ironic but if Devil is included in a trail name, it’s likely to have stunning scenery and just might have a challenge or two.

Trails around Devil’s Canyon are not established and maintained, but foot traffic and an old forest road make it possible to walk around the canyon’s edge.

Two waterfalls are the main attractions. Devil’s Canyon Junior Falls are easy to access. If you have time, explore the boulder-filled stream bed downstream from the falls. You could make a whole day of visiting Jr. Falls and the creek above and below the falls but our goal on this particular hike was to make it around the whole loop.

The taller and more difficult to access Devil’s Canyon Falls are on the north side of the canyon. To get to them, you’ll hike a ways and then scramble down into the canyon. A rope is tied to assist hikers and I needed it. After taking photos, I filtered water and climbed out of the canyon using the rope.

A quick word about water filters. I always carry a Sawyer in my daypack. If I know there’ll be access to water, having the filter allows me to carry less knowing I can resupply on the trail. Another benefit is being able to share water with hikers who might be running low. I don’t work for Sawyer but they make a great filter. I usually try to end a hike with some newly filtered creek water so I can make tea when I get home as a little ritual of thanksgiving for the gifts we find in the Ozarks.

It was a great hike in Devil’s Canyon. Thanks to hike leaders John and Grant for their planning. After a short afternoon nap, I enjoyed a cup of tea from Devil’s Canyon water while looking through photos.

A Sacred Place in the Ozarks

My Arkansas trail friends probably know exactly where I was when I took this photo. It’s a special place in the Ozarks and one I’ve visited many times. Today was overcast with a slight drizzle and cold…perfect trail conditions when hiking Spirits Creek!

After rock-hopping across Spirits Creek I walked downstream to the established campsite where I’ve camped many times. While spending a few minutes out on the creek I thought about previous trips to this spot and time spent there with friends.

Spirits Creek next to the established campsite.

The drizzling rain increased making me nervous about getting my camera wet. I placed a plastic bag over it and hiked back upstream to the crossing where I enjoyed remembering a morning in 2014 when the swollen creek was verging on dangerous. No worries today but there was still enough water for the creek to be beautiful and create ribbon falls from the nearby bluffs.

You’ll pass several places where water pours over the bluffs.

Before heading up and out of the valley back to Ragtown trailhead, I spent some time with one of my favorite waterfalls a short distance upstream from the V-shaped cascade cover photo for this post.

The climb from Spirits Creek wasn’t as difficult as I’d anticipated. I credit the views I continued to think about for making the hike up and out easier. As I got close to the end, I nodded toward the valley and said a soft, “Thank you” for the beauty that I was able to enjoy this day.

Hiker-dog at Alum Cove Natural Bridge

It doesn’t seem possible that Hiker-dog has been part of our family for over ten years now. She must be around twelve years old now but she still loves the trails and exploring.

Recently we visited Alum Cove Natural Bridge and had the whole trail to ourselves for a little while, so I let her go off leash for a few minutes, especially around the icy spots in the trail. I had visions of her pulling me across the ice as a sled and wanted to avoid that fun.

She provided me with some entertainment underneath the natural bridge as she danced and skated across the icy stream that runs through and down the bottom of the cove. As temperatures warmed, we avoided being underneath massive ice formations that could fall with the impact of small boulders.

View from on top of the natural bridge.

We took a little time to explore the areas around this natural wonder. I always marvel when facing such complex but artistic views formed mostly by water and time.

Hiker-dog liked this little cave on the other side of Alum Cove. Nice view and protection from the elements. I’m pretty certain these caves were shelters for early inhabitants of the Ozarks. While inside, we had to keep an eye overhead to be sure we weren’t walking under icicles hanging from above.

Spotting Becca at the entrance of this cave helped me realize the size.

Hiker-dog says, “Thanks for joining us.” If you’d like to read how Hiker-dog joined up with our family at mile 138 of the Ozark Highlands Trail, it’s available at Chapters on Main in Van Buren, Bookish in Fort Smith, and Amazon.com online.

Somewhere in the Ozarks

IMG_4013rrA simple long walk in the woods can heal the spirit, and it doesn’t hurt our physical side either. The photos in this post were taken on a Monday walk in the Ozarks, but not on any particular trail. It was a treat to hike with Steve and Chris, both trail enthusiasts and maintainers. I’ll describe our location simply as somewhere in the Ozarks.

Hiker-dog made a full day of it. She must have run twenty miles to our eight walked. I’ve only seen her chew wood out of a log one other time. Must have been something good hiding in there!

Curved moist bluff

Steve had the idea of using part of the Ozark Highlands Trail and some bushwhacking to come up with a 20+mile loop. As soon as I saw the bluff area pictured above, I knew the route had to be developed because of the beauty and interesting features.

I never get tired of looking at rocks. That’s a good thing because we see quite a few in the Ozarks.

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Ten-foot tall boulder sitting alone next to a bluff.
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Redbuds showed their color down below the tree canopy and this long bluff.

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We often see rock walls and old footings from historic structures built by earlier residents.

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Old homesite footings

We saw some tall trees during our walk.

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Water adds another layer of beauty in the Ozarks. This creek was flowing strong enough that we studied it for a few minutes before crossing.

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Water flowing over rock is always special! As we crossed a small drainage, I paused for a photo using a log for my tripod.

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The soft gurgling of water made for pleasant hiking next to this stream. My hot feet thanked me for spending a few minutes with this small cascade.

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If you’ve ever heard the roar of a waterfall inside a hollow in the Ozarks, you understand how it draws you toward the sound, wondering what you’ll find. These falls looked to be about ten feet high. Nice spot for a break.

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Hiker-dog was thrilled to spend a full day exploring the Ozarks, and she appreciated all of the positive attention.

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Watching her grooming made me long for a hot shower. After a tough climb, we made it out of the woods and I got my wish.

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I completed the day feeling good and thankful for my health.

Rock, wood, and water. How amazing that these elements combine to form such beauty for us to enjoy! When in doubt, get out there somewhere in the Ozarks.

Everything is Holy Now

Quote Mary Chapin Carpenter  copy

As I loaded my pack for a fall trip in the Ozarks, this favorite quote came to mind and made me think. What do I really need to carry with me when walking a trail? Then a larger question came to mind. What is it I need on this walk through life?

What I’ve thought was indispensable to a happy life often proved to be insignificant clutter, based mostly on what our culture proclaims we must have. Much of what we label as sacred has shown to be hollow, or at best, a shallow imitation for holy.

I’ll place a few essentials carefully into my pack – food, water, shelter, and coffee. In addition to the pack, I’ll carry my mind and a pounding heart. The trail will provide the remainder of what I need.

As I receive what the trails have to offer, I sometimes whisper this song. “Wine from water is not so small, but an even better magic trick is that anything is here at all.”

Imperfect Beauty

WordPress Photo Challenge: Structure – The arrangement of and relations between the parts or elements of something complex.  Beauty – a combination of qualities, such as shape, color, or form, that pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight.IMG_1982rrIn each of these objects from nature there is beautiful imperfection. A cone flower petal misplaced or the tip of a butterfly wing snipped off by a predator. Those slight irregularities in structure reveal the frailty and temporary nature of the beauty. Perhaps imperfections expand the qualities of beauty. IMG_2056rrIMG_2035rrThis ancient gnarly cedar clutches the edge of a mountain bluff, enduring random forces of winds, water, and ice as only its random structure could do. Beauty comes through deep wrinkles that speak of its tenacity and resilience from years lived so close to destruction.

The above photos were from a recent hike on Mount Magazine, Arkansas’ highest mountain.

Arkansas Master Naturalists: Pausing to Learn

Ark Master Nat logoSince January I’ve been involved in training with Arkansas Master Naturalists (AMN), putting a crimp in my hiking plans but with great rewards. It’s easy to plow ever forward almost mindlessly from one outdoor adventure to another without appreciating the gifts to be found along the trails.

Becoming a Master Naturalist required completing 40 hours of formal training on Saturdays, so I sacrificed some trail time, but I met a great group of diverse people with many talents and areas of expertise. This training served as a beginning point for future learning and helped me realize how little I know about our natural world. The AMN encourages participants to follow their interests in learning and volunteer efforts.

At the graduation program while listening to others discuss our path to this point, I decided to draw a visual aid to show how the training lays a foundation for future learning and service to our environment. My favorite part of this visual is the two arrows up and out indicating future work and continued learning. (Revised in Jan. 2018 for the incoming Naturalists in Training.)

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My formal pause for learning is coming to an end, but I’ll be sure to slow down and look more carefully as I hike along the trails. I also look forward to meeting my classmates as we volunteer in service to our natural areas.

Now, my mind is buzzing with ideas for future trips. So many trails and so little time!

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A few of the graduates of the Naturalists in Training

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Tom was my mentor and encourager

Sharing Trails at the Arkansas Literary Festival

Ark Lit Fest Warnock pic

Excerpt from the festival website

If you’re in the Little Rock area, come enjoy two great books at this free event!

Ark Literary Festival exerpt

Excerpt from the printed program

Time: Saturday, April 29 at 11:30 a.m.

Place: Witt Stevens Building Central Arkansas Nature Center, 602 President Clinton Ave, Little Rock, AR

 

Matt Moran and I will be taking you on a tour of the Big Woods of the Delta Region and the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas and Missouri. We’ll share the beauty and history of these regions and help you plan future adventures. Check out the full schedule of events and make a weekend of it!

Help spread the word by printing or sharing with your friends: Five Star Trails Poster 042917 Literary FestivalFive Star Trails Poster 042917 Literary Festival

Ambience: Comforting Light

WordPress Photo Challenge: Ambience 

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Smith Creek in the Buffalo National River region

I was immediately smitten on my first visit to Smith Creek Conservation Area. The ambience was soothing and inviting. Deep greens comforted my soul and I felt thankfulness while standing in the middle of this creek.

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Looking downstream on Smith Creek

Follow this link for more about Smith Creek.

Five Star Trails: The Ozarks includes map, trail description, and driving directions for Smith Creek Trail.

Why Visit the Ozarks?

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I’m proud to share posts written this month for Menasha Ridge Press. Below are links to each of these fall-focused posts. Come enjoy the beauty of fall in the Ozarks. I’d be honored to guide you on the trails with my new book, Five Star Trails: The Ozarks.

Part I: Top Reasons to Visit the Ozarks This Fall

Part II: Why Visit the Ozark Mountains? All the Fall Colors! 

Part III: Why Visit the Ozarks? The Rich History of the People of the Ozark Mountains