On the Road in the Ozarks

Posted on January 26, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Old cabin at the old Lake Fort Smith turn off in Mountainburg.

Vacant cabins at the old Lake Fort Smith turnoff in Mountainburg.

Part of the pleasure of hiking is the drive to the trailhead. Here are just a few of my favorite places along side of Ozark roads. I drive through Mountainburg in route to many trailheads, but only recently noticed these little cabins. They are a short distance off of AR 71 at the turnoff that led to the original Lake Fort Smith State Park, closed in 2002 when the lake was expanded.

Dairy Dream in Mountainburg.

The Dairy Dream is on the east side of AR 71 in Mountainburg. I noticed their “Mountainburger” is priced at $2.50 according to the menu in the window. The Dairy Dream was closed for the winter. I’ve never stopped there but hope to try the Mountainburger someday.

Artist Point on AR 71

Artist Point, north of Mountainburg, is one of my favorite places on AR 71. In 2001, when we were thinking about moving to Alma, we stopped in at Artist Point. A helpful young lady was working behind the counter as her grandparents looked on. I asked where she attended school, and she said, “Alma.” Both she and her younger brother were my students, and I enjoyed watching them grow up.

I became friends with Mr. and Mrs. Blaylock, owners of Artist Point. There was a steep trail behind the store. Mr. Blaylock wasn’t able to hike the trail down to the waterfall anymore, but enjoyed hearing reports and seeing photos of the area. Sadly, Mr. Blaylock has been gone for several years, but his store remains and is definitely worth a stop if you’re in the area.

Abandoned house on Highway 23

Old structures along the roads sometimes demand that my Jeep hit the shoulder. Even though I’m rushing to the trail, I’ll pull out the camera for a few pics.

Barn on Highway 23

Sometimes food is the motivator. Such is the case with the Turner Bend Store, located on Highway 23 close to Cass. Great sandwiches and good people! Stopping there is always a treat!

Turner Bend Store

The Oark General Store serves up a good breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They are known for being Arkansas’ oldest continuously open restaurant. A necessary stop if you’re hitting the western part of the Ozark Highlands Trail. It’s a short drive from Arbaugh Trailhead.

Oark General Store

The Hagarville Country Store on Highway 215 north of Clarksville is a great little stop. The owner also runs shuttles for hikers when needed and usually has some good trail stories to share.

Hagarville Country Store

Hankins Country Store

Another favorite stop on the road to the trails is Hankins Country Store, located at the intersection of AR Scenic Highway 7 and AR 215. An old post office and several interesting old items are inside. There’s even a barber’s chair that is used from time to time if someone needs a haircut. The wood burning stove feels great after a winter hike through the Hurricane Wilderness Area. They make a good sandwich….especially good after a hike.

Pelsor Post Office inside the Hankins Country Store

If you’re up in the Buffalo River region, a stop in at the Ozark Cafe is a must. Lots of good food and history!

Ozark Cafe in Jasper

The Arkansas House Cafe

Another great place to eat in Jasper is the Arkansas House Cafe, connected to the Arkansas House, an old, but clean establishment. The Elk Chili was a treat!

Buffalo Outdoor Center

The Buffalo Outdoor Center is a long-established business that began when Mike Mills started running river shuttles about forty years ago. The staff loves to talk trails, and they give good directions to some beautiful spots close by. They also have good food, books, and run shuttles. I’ve used them several times to shuttle my Jeep over to Highway 7 when I hike the Buffalo River Trail.

Inside the Buffalo Outdoor Center

Across the street from the Buffalo Outdoor Center, you’ll find the Ponca Elk Education Center. This is a great place for all ages. I enjoyed spending a little time looking at the nature displays inside.

The closest I’ve come to an Arkansas Black Bear.

Display at the Elk Education Center

The Boxley Baptist Church is a highlight just a few minutes from Ponca.

Boxley Valley, Arkansas

Many old structures can be found on the roads to the trail. This little house is located on the dirt road to the Lost Valley Trail.

Close to Lost Valley

Inside the two room structure.

To be continued…. So many roads to so many trails.

House on the road to Lick Branch Trailhead

“Fixer-upper” on the road to Lick Branch Trailhead of the Ozark Highlands Trail

The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Express Yourself” Boxley Valley Church

Posted on January 26, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Boxley Valley, Arkansas

Faith in things you cannot see
Hope in things that may yet be
Mountains and lives intertwined, but free.

Stopped to photograph this church last week while hiking several trails in the Buffalo River region.

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Express Yourself.”

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A Couple of Classic Arkansas Trails

Posted on January 25, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

The first time Becca and I drove down the steep switchbacks into Devil’s Den State Park, it was after dark. We’d driven all day from the southern part of the state to get to our campsite. We hadn’t been married long, so Becca probably wondered about her safety and her future. Years later we hiked these trails with our daughters. Now, more than thirty years after my first visit, I was driving down those switchbacks, looking forward to some familiar trails.

Devil’s Den Trail

The Devil’s Den Trail is short but packed with sights. Every one-tenth of a mile, there is another point of interest. I saw, as if for the first time, the Devil’s Theater. I’d walked past this several times in the past, but never looked closely. It was a much larger outcropping than I’d remembered.

Devil’s Theater

Devil’s Cave

Devil’s Cave is closed to protect the bat population. Several years ago, before the cave closed, I helped with a trash cleanup. I’m sure the park rangers’ lives are simpler now. They have no worries about trash or cave rescues.

Steam can be seen exiting the cave entrance.

Spending a few minutes at the cave entrance reminded me of hikes with my daughters when they were younger. We didn’t go far into the cave, but it was just the right amount of adventure for a family outing.

Anna and Christen on one of our visits to the cave.

Shortly after the cave, the trail comes along side of intricate crevices that deserve respect. Some of them are deep.

Some of the crevices next to the trail.

There are several examples of eroded bluffs where years of spinning water carved out bowl-shaped caves in the rock. Some bluffs were spotted with many eroded places that looked like mini-caves. This made me wonder what mysteries might be found beneath the surface of the rock.

Devil’s Bowls

The bluff, where the waterfall is located, was icy in spots. Spots where you wouldn’t want to fall!

Icy bluff

After the short Devil’s Den Trail, it was time for the second classic hike, Yellow Rock. The trail goes right around the base of this tall bluff. On the hillside below you could see evidence of hikers taking shortcuts across switchbacks damaging the trail. I noticed a few young guys walking around down there and asked, “Have you lost the trail, or are you just trying to tear up the hillside.” They looked startled and got back on the trail. They probably thought I was a teacher, school principal, or something like that.

Yellow Rock Trail

It is one mile to Yellow Rock Bluff. I spent some time there and was glad this young man stopped on a crag close by so I would have someone to add perspective to the view.

View from Yellow Rock down into the Lee Creek drainage.

The Yellow Rock Trail goes up to the Overlook Shelter, built by the CCC in 1934. They built it right! If you look closely, you can see the bridge in the valley. Just down the road to the left of the bridge is the Yellow Rock Trailhead. We’ve covered a little distance.

View from the Overlook Shelter

I spent some time at the shelter, then headed down the trail, thankful for the memories tied to these two classic treks.

Devil’s Den Dam around 2002.

Three Day Hikes – One Fine Day

Posted on January 19, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

I typically like hiking a long section of trail and camping along the way. I think of day hiking as what I do around the Lake Alma Trail, training for “real” hiking trips. My wife and I spent the weekend in Jasper at the Arkansas House, an old, but clean establishment with two great restaurants on either side of us.

Walking to the Arkansas House

My goal was to do some day hiking. I was feeling particularly guilty about two of the hikes. As a backpacker, I should probably have my Arkansas citizenship revoked for the following two infractions: First, I have only hiked Whitaker Point (Hawksbill Crag) once, and that was over sixteen years ago. Second, I have never hiked to Hole-in-a-Rock Falls (Glory Hole Falls). Yesterday I corrected these deficiencies and hiked both trails as well as Lost Valley.

It was a wonderful day. I began with the familiar trail, Lost Valley. Sometimes the drive to the trailhead provides some visual treats. I had to stop a the little community of Low Gap and take a picture of this historic church and their restroom facilities right next to the church.

Ladies’ facilities poised on the edge of a bluff next to the church.

I wanted Lost Valley all to my self. By beginning early, I got my wish. As I left the trail following my hike, cars began pouring into the parking lot. Below are a few photos from this hike.

Fifty-foot Eden Falls from a distance.

This was my first visit to the Eden Falls Cave. I didn’t crawl into the room I’m told has a 30-foot waterfall since I wasn’t equipped for caving. I did enjoy doing some light-painting with my flashlight and a 15-second exposure.

Inside Eden Falls Cave

Next on the agenda was Whitaker Point. I drove up Cave Mountain Road and drove a hundred yards past the trailhead before finding a spot to park. People were everywhere, but it was fine. I was glad there would be someone on the crag to add perspective.

I didn’t anticipate that gymnasts would be doing handstands on the crag. I was glad they didn’t try anything close to the edge. How I do hate getting involved in rescue work…

Handstand on Hawksbill Crag

Met a nice couple from Fayetteville. Their dogs were cooperative and let me snap a shot of them looking at the crag.

A couple looking at Hawksbill Crag in the distance.

One of my favorite outcroppings is just past Hawksbill Crag. After taking a photo for a family on this bluff, they agreed to let their daughter pose for a photo. I like the way those two leaning stones are supporting each other near the edge.

Young hiker taking in the views and staying away from the edge.

Young hiker taking in the views and staying safely away from the edge.

Parking on Cave Mountain Road was challenging. The drive back down off of the mountain was also tricky with so many cars approaching in the opposite direction. It was a slow 6-miles out.

Parking on Cave Mountain Road.

It was now early afternoon, and I realized I hadn’t had breakfast or lunch. I snacked through the day and never felt hungry. Anyway, no time for a meal with so many beautiful trails to see.

From Whitaker Point, I drove out to Hole-in-a-Rock Falls, also known as Glory Hole Falls. No worries about finding the trailhead, just watch for the cars parked along the highway. This hike was almost all road walking until the last little bit.

As I approached the falls, I realized that the afternoon sun was aimed right at the falls. With the strong sunlight and crowds of spectators, my best option was to focus on the “hole in the rock” itself. Between setting up a shot of that and taking pictures for families and friends crowding around the waterfall, I stayed pretty busy.

The hike out was a pleasant climb, and I felt great relief that I had now made my first (but not last) visit to this famous Arkansas waterfall.

Photo Challenge: Serenity in Lost Valley

Posted on January 17, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Serenity – The state of being calm, at peace, and untroubled. This morning I paused at this pool below the Natural Bridge and Cascade on the Lost Valley Trail. This water flows to the Buffalo National River a short distance away. Serenity best describes what I felt while taking in this scene.

Inside the cave above Eden Falls

A few minutes later I sat in the darkness of a cave above Eden Falls and light-painted this scene with my flashlight during a 15-second exposure. The water at my feet flowed down Eden Falls, eventually blending with water flowing from under the Natural Bridge, where I sat earlier. Inside this cave, I felt like a small piece of the world, observing in peace and serenity.to crawl more often.

The next morning I realized it took a difference set of muscles to crawl into position for this photo. Just a little sore, but well worth it.

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Serenity.”

Winter Beauty on the Trail

Posted on January 10, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

McWater Falls on the Lake Alma Trail

I love hiking the Ozarks in winter! No bugs, no sweat, and great views. Add a little water, and you have the recipe for beauty! These photos were taken this morning between 8:00 and 10:00 a.m. The temperature was 17-degrees at the beginning of the hike and warmed up to 24 by the end.

Little Frog Bayou on the Lake Alma Trail

Frost flower next to the trail.

Hiker is a winter dog! She snuggles up in her straw bed inside her little house, but is ready to hit the trail regardless of temperature. She got a little impatient at this creek while I was taking photos. She was ready to move on down the trail!

Hiker-dog

Memories and Moments, Sights and Sounds

Posted on January 5, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Hiker-dog and I hiked the sun down this evening. This was from necessity since most of the day was spent before we could get to the trail. I rarely hike with my iPod but, since the weather was clear, I decided to listen. What I didn’t count on was a magical blending of sight and sound.

Dusk on the Lake Alma Trail.

As I approached “the point” the view opened up toward the south as the last glimmers of sunlight subsided. Darrell Scott and Tim O’Brien were singing Memories and Moments. Geese flew in silhouette and called their way across the lake. A train horn sang out a low tone in the distance. I stood in silence drinking in the sounds and sights. After a moment, I snapped a picture with my phone and continued down the trail filled with gratitude, eventually hiking to the light of a full moon.

Home Trail Through Fresh Eyes

Posted on January 3, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Spur trail to McWater Falls

Today I walked my “home trail” with a group of hikers from the Ozark Society. We took four hours to hike the four mile Lake Alma Trail, but it was a pleasure. Part of the enjoyment came from seeing this familiar trail through other’s eyes. Areas I’d walked past without a thought became places they stopped for photos.

McWater Falls

We spent a lot of time at McWater Falls before heading on around the loop. Seeing these hikers’ appreciation of our little waterfall was gratifying. It’s a good thing waterfalls don’t have egos. McWater Falls would be the most arrogant of them all after today’s photo session.

Hexagon House

The group spent time speculating about the history and backstory of the Hexagon House.

Albino Nandina? No red berries.

One of the plants the group noticed were these nandinas that grow throughout the area. Two plants stood out because of their colorless berries. This was something none of us had seen before. The group was interested in seeing this well just off the beaten path. The stonework appears to be more recent than the hand-dug well it covers. The group enjoyed discussing possible dates for the development of this well and the nearby root cellar.

Interior of the well.

Rustic root cellar

Frank taking a shot.

It was a good day with good people on the Lake Alma Trail. It was also a pleasure to see the trail through fresh eyes. Follow this link to read more about the Lake Alma Trail.

Hiker-dog’s Year

Posted on January 1, 2015 by ozarkmountainhiker

Here's Hiker-dog on January 20th of 2014 weighing about 42 pounds.

Hiker-dog on January 18th of 2014 weighing about 42 pounds.

This picture was from the second day that Hiker (not named then) followed us on the Ozark Highlands Trail. We avoided feeding her the first day because we didn’t want her to follow, knowing that the exertion in her weakened condition would cause her death. We began to feed her beef jerky and an occasional tuna pack when we realized she would continue no matter what.

Hiker on December 30th, 2014, weighing in at 60 lbs.

Hiker’s eyes tell the story of her year. When we first met, they were hazy and sunken. Now her eyes are bright and enthusiastic, taking in everything around her. She is playful and friendly with everyone we meet on the trail.

Keeping Hiker has taken a commitment in money and time but she’s added a lot to our family and outings on the trail. On lazy days, she motivates me to get out and hike.

We’re glad she chose to follow the forty-two miles she traveled to join our family.

To read more about how Hiker joined us, read Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat.

Hiker taking a break on Spy Rock, Hare Mountain.

Hiker taking a break on Morgan Mountain in December of 2014.

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Monthly Archives: January 2015