Rock House on the Ozark Highlands Trail

Rock House

Rock House

The Rock House is one of my favorite landmarks on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). It’s easily accessed, but most drive Highway 23 unaware of the history perched under a bluff a mere quarter mile walk from the road. As the crow flies, the distance is much closer and during the winter it’s easy to see the highway down below. Don’t let the roundtrip 0.5-mile by trail deceive you. It’s a steep climb on the Ozark Highlands Trail and a short spur trail to the structure.  If you walk to see Rock House, wear sturdy walking shoes and carry some water.

The Rock House was probably built as a shelter for loggers sometime during the 1890s to 1920s when the area was heavily logged for white oak, in high demand because of the expansion of railroads across the country. By the 1930s, the old-growth forests were pretty much exhausted. It still makes a good shelter today in spite of some shifting of the ground that has caused a separation between the wall and bluff. It has a rough concrete floor, and a small spring located in the back of the single room.

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The short hike to Rock House begins at Cherry Bend Trail Head, located approximately five miles north of Cass on AR 23 (AKA Pig Trail). This is a popular trailhead for accessing the OHT. Watch for fast traffic when crossing the highway as you begin your walk.

Cherry Bend Trail Head

Cherry Bend Trail Head

A spur trail leads to a nice view behind the trailhead sign, but to access the OHT and Rock House, you’ll cross the highway on a short trail marked with blue blazes.

Lost sole…

Lost sole…

There is a thru-hike trail register at the intersection with the OHT. We’re going to turn left onto the OHT and head sharply uphill following white blazes. I only saw one “lost sole” on my hike up to Rock House. You’ll often have the OHT all to yourself, but you might encounter thru-hikers and enjoy a short visit about their time on the trail.

Sign indicating spur trail to Rock House

Sign indicating spur trail to Rock House blue blazes marking the spur and white blazes marking the OHT

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Front door facing the approaching spur trail

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On a thru-hike of the Ozark Highlands Trail in December of 2013, a hiking buddy and I spent a cold night in the Rock House sheltered from the rain. Seeing car lights below made me want to rush down and beg someone to bring pizza from Clarksville, but staying warm in my sleeping bag won that short mental argument.

Today as I revisit the Rock House, it’s sunny and mild for February. The views of the Ozark Mountains to the east are enticing. I feel the desire to load my pack and head out for a multi-day hike over Hare Mountain and through the Marinoni Scenic Area to Lick Branch.

Hiker and spring in the back of the Rock House

Hiker and spring in the back of the Rock House

Hiker attempted to drink from the spring in the back corner but the water was a couple of feet below the edge, and she didn’t couldn’t reach it. The water from this spring  needs to be filtered. The single time I filtered water here, it wasn’t the best.  It would be good water if you’re in a bind or have time to filter it through cloth before using your water filter.

Inside the Rock House

Inside the Rock House

You can see the toll that time has taken. The separation of the rock walls from the bluff ceiling are evident as well as the loose rocks around doors and windows. Please leave this fragile structure as you find it. The Rock House is a little historic treasure we’ll want our children and grandchildren to see for years to come!

Note: I’ve enjoyed sharing a glimpse of the rich history surrounding the Ozark Highlands Trail. If you know of other structures in the Arkansas or Missouri Ozarks, please share them with me on my feedback page or comment on this post.

Route from Hwy 23 to Rock House

Route from Hwy 23 to Rock House

Cherry Bend Trail Head GPS: N35 44.554 W93 48.799

Cherry Bend Trailhead is located approximately 5 miles north of Cass on Arkansas Highway 23.  The second waypoint on the above map is the intersection with the OHT. The OHT route showing on this web map is an approximation.  The last waypoint on the east side of Highway 23 is the Rock House.

Back door of the Rock House

Back door of the Rock House

Lake Alma Trail: A Trail for All Reasons

By Jim Warnock – Published in the @Urban Magazine (now Do South Magazine) of Fort Smith in October, 2012

Lake Alma Trail at sunset.

Lake Alma Trail at sunset.

Whether you’re a parent looking for an easy day hike to introduce your children to the gentle pleasures of nature or a trail runner looking for a heart-throbbing, rock-hopping, scrambling good time, Lake Alma Trail is for you!

Chuck Dovish, of Exploring Arkansas with AETN, said, “It’s amazing that so much variety and diversity of scenery is found right inside the town of Alma.”

Step onto this little 4-mile trail and your eyes are in for a treat. You’ll see bluff lines and moss-covered boulder fields up close.  You’ll walk beside clear streams, rocky cascades and small waterfalls.   Situated within a diverse mixed hardwood forest, you may spot deer, rabbit, fox, great blue heron, and a variety of songbirds.  Watch your step and give right-of-way to the many terrapin turtles that call Lake Alma home.

On any given day you’ll find families out for a stroll or a nature walk and picnic lunch at McWater Falls, just twenty-minutes into the trail.  Said one father, “I want my kids to know how beautiful and fragile our environment is.  When they see Little Frog Bayou and realize this is the source of our drinking water, they’ll become caretakers and protectors of places like this.”  History buffs will enjoy exploring rock structures located just past mile one.  Mystery surrounds the “when” and “why” of these structures which include a small hexagon rock house with fireplace.

Old homesite hexagon house

Continue down the trail and you’re likely to encounter trail runners soaring up “little bluff scramble” and churning around the whole loop in preparation for competition.  “I love this trail!  It allows for an intense workout in a short amount of time and the scenery makes even the hills enjoyable!” said Tommy Griffin, a local runner.  Hike early and you’ll see locals trotting slowly and carefully along the rockier paths preparing for future marathons or just enjoying a morning workout and quick dose of nature.

Trail runners

Trail runners

Harry visiting with Chuck Dovish at Lake Alma as trail volunteer,Laura Seal, looks on.

Harry visiting with Chuck Dovish at Lake Alma as trail volunteer,Laura Seal, looks on.

The beginnings of Lake Alma Trail can be traced to longtime resident, Harry McWater.  The idea of a trail around the lake occurred to him during the late 1990s as a member of the Alma City Council.  He mentioned the possibility several times only to be told that money for such a project wasn’t available.

Then, about a year ago during a conversation with the mayor he asked, “What if I find volunteers to get that hiking trail built?”  Mayor John Ballentine said, “Go for it!”  With that, Harry sought expertise and labor from the Arkansas Master Naturalists, Ozark Highlands Trail Association and local volunteers, including Alma School District student organizations and scout troops.  Students were enthusiastic about the project.  Nathanael Mickelson, then a senior Student Council member said, “I can’t believe I have a hiking trail three minutes from my house!”

McWater Falls (approx. 12-feet)

The actual work began in March of 2012 and the forward momentum that followed was undeniable.  Since that time well over one-hundred pairs of helping hands have spent time making this trail a reality.   Volunteers blazed and cleared the route.  There was side-hilling, raking, and general cleanup to be done.  With each workday, a deeper beauty was revealed.  As the route became established, hikers’ feet helped firm up the tread and keep it open.  One volunteer said, “It’s like remodeling your kitchen.  You use it before it’s finished.  Maybe it’s never really finished.”  The work continues as constant improvements are made.

The best trail maintenance is use!  Give your concrete-weary feet a break or drop the cumbersome baggage of civilization for a few hours.  Relax beside a clear, cool stream or let your mind wonder about the early inhabitants of the “hexagon house.”  Whatever your reason, Lake Alma Trail is ready to greet you in all its beauty and variety.

Logo design, Ashley Campbell

Getting There Take Alma Exit 13 off I-40, then drive north on Hwy 71 to the first light. Turn right onto Collum Lane East then left onto Mountain Grove Road.  Go north past the Alma water tanks on the left then a quick left into a picnic area.  The trail begins at the fishing dock.  Walk the paved Nature Trail north with the lake to your left.  The Lake Alma Trailhead is at the north end of the paved trail where it turns sharply back toward the picnic area.  Read the information sign built and installed by volunteers with some help from the City of Alma.  If you hike the whole 4-mile trail, you’ll come back to the fishing dock from across the dam.   A shorter family-friendly hike is the forty-minute walk to the waterfall and back.  To get more information about Lake Alma Trail and volunteer opportunities, follow updates from the Lake Alma Trail Facebook page.

 

Reflections

Springtime reflections on Little Frog Bayou

Bridge over west creek built by volunteers, Joe and Laura

Lake Alma fishing dock

Lake Alma fishing dock