Devil’s Canyon in Fern, AR

Grant taking a photo from a Devil’s Canyon overlook

Saint John’s Episcopal Church in Fort Smith organizes day hikes open to all. The group calls itself Edge Walkers. I’ve visited this beautiful church and decided to join the group’s hike in Devil’s Canyon, located a little over seven miles north of I-40 on Hwy 215.

John capturing a video

While saving photos, I noticed several other trails I’ve hiked with Devil in the name. Seems ironic but if Devil is included in a trail name, it’s likely to have stunning scenery and just might have a challenge or two.

Trails around Devil’s Canyon are not established and maintained, but foot traffic and an old forest road make it possible to walk around the canyon’s edge.

Two waterfalls are the main attractions. Devil’s Canyon Junior Falls are easy to access. If you have time, explore the boulder-filled stream bed downstream from the falls. You could make a whole day of visiting Jr. Falls and the creek above and below the falls but our goal on this particular hike was to make it around the whole loop.

The taller and more difficult to access Devil’s Canyon Falls are on the north side of the canyon. To get to them, you’ll hike a ways and then scramble down into the canyon. A rope is tied to assist hikers and I needed it. After taking photos, I filtered water and climbed out of the canyon using the rope.

A quick word about water filters. I always carry a Sawyer in my daypack. If I know there’ll be access to water, having the filter allows me to carry less knowing I can resupply on the trail. Another benefit is being able to share water with hikers who might be running low. I don’t work for Sawyer but they make a great filter. I usually try to end a hike with some newly filtered creek water so I can make tea when I get home as a little ritual of thanksgiving for the gifts we find in the Ozarks.

It was a great hike in Devil’s Canyon. Thanks to hike leaders John and Grant for their planning. After a short afternoon nap, I enjoyed a cup of tea from Devil’s Canyon water while looking through photos.

World of Beauty Down a Small Ozark Hollow

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I’ve read about the waterfall in Devil’s Canyon, but today was not a waterfall hunting day. We were merely scouting the driving directions and having a look around so that when the water is flowing strongly in the future, we can get to the area quickly. I made it to the first drain and ended up spending all of my available time exploring a small hollow as I followed the water downhill.

Continuing a short distance downstream, we came to this little grotto and waterfall. The large waterfall this area is known for is in another section of Devil’s Canyon (close by air, but distant by foot).

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At this point, I thought I’d seen the scenic features of this little side-valley, but the randomly placed car-sized boulders drew me ever downward. I quickly came to a reflective pool and realized little beauty-surprises were hidden around every boulder.

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Below is a wider view of the same area showing boulders stacked above.

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Massive stacked boulders

Continuing downstream, I heard flowing water but couldn’t see where the cascade was until I arrived next to an A-shaped opening.

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A young man who I’d seen running the jeep road on the edge of the canyon reappeared and exclaimed at how beautiful this little area was. I introduced myself and discovered that he worked for the US Forest Service. He’d been helping with a fire in Tennessee and was now headed back home to Oregon. After our short visit, I thought how easy it is to meet fascinating people on the trails of Arkansas.

While taking a photograph of the little cascade through the leaning A-shaped rocks, I heard a commotion close by and instinctively covered my head. Hiker’s 65-pound frame had dislodged some small rocks causing her to glissade down a slope, bringing rocks and dirt with her. She ran over next to me and stayed close by for a few minutes.

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A surprised Hiker-dog stayed close by for a few minutes after her slide down a hillside.

I needed to watch my time to allow for the uphill climb out of this little valley. The way these boulders caught my attention, it would be easy to remain until after dark.

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We spent some more time at the little grotto on our way back upstream. I ate some dry bread I’d packed as a nod to John Muir, who’s birthday was a few days before on April 21st. Born in 1883, he continues to influence thinking about the outdoors and conservation today. He was known to toss a dry loaf of bread in a sack and explore the mountains for several days…the original ultra-light backpacker.

As we continued upstream, I noticed this scene I walked past earlier. Its beauty wasn’t lost on Hiker because she hopped right in after I took this photo.

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As we crossed the creek that feeds into the hollow, I noticed the abstract patterns created by shallow water and sunlight. I couldn’t resist capturing the intricate dancing lines that flowed at my feet.

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Shallow creek crossing

It had been a beautiful hike down this small stream and back up. Today I learned again that you can’t predict the beauty you might find in the eroded valleys of the Ozark Mountains. I was already missing this place as we passed the overlooks on the edge of the canyon. We will return another day!

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Hiker seemed to enjoy the view as we hiked away from Devil’s Canyon.