Tag Archives: Ozark Highlands Trail

Day Hike to Cedar Creek on the OHT

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Cedar Creek is a favorite feature of the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). I decided it would be a good first real hike in over a week for my dog who recently had minor eye surgery. She’s been held prisoner by an Elizabethan Collar for 24-hours a day for the last full week. Elizabethan Collar seems overly poetic for something so inconvenient.

Monday morning I unceremoniously removed the plastic collar and gave Hiker-dog her freedom. Once we got on the trail, she was one happy dog!

Since this is a hike I plan to use in the second edition of Five Star Trails: The Ozarks, I took my time and made notes during the drive out to Rosetta Trailhead. I’ve driven to this trailhead before, but writing directions that others can follow requires thought and decisions about which details to include.

I enjoyed the whole walk down to the creek while watching Hiker-dog dart through the woods and occasionally following close by. We spent some time at Hobo Falls and Cedar Creek before hammering our way back to the trailhead.

Story has it that Hobo Falls picked up the name because remnants of a hobo camp were found nearby. Next time I visit, I plan to be a hobo and spend a couple of nights in the area. I noticed a nearby cave that would make an easy shelter as long as a critter hasn’t already claimed it.

The next few photos are from 2016 when a great group of trail friends camped here. Hiker-dog and I had been together for a couple of years by that time. She’s at least 12 years old now but still going strong.

The left and center photo below are Hiker-dog in 2016 when she was around three years old. The photo on the right is gray bearded Hiker-dog in 2025.

A Sacred Place in the Ozarks

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My Arkansas trail friends probably know exactly where I was when I took this photo. It’s a special place in the Ozarks and one I’ve visited many times. Today was overcast with a slight drizzle and cold…perfect trail conditions when hiking Spirits Creek!

After rock-hopping across Spirits Creek I walked downstream to the established campsite where I’ve camped many times. While spending a few minutes out on the creek I thought about previous trips to this spot and time spent there with friends.

Spirits Creek next to the established campsite.

The drizzling rain increased making me nervous about getting my camera wet. I placed a plastic bag over it and hiked back upstream to the crossing where I enjoyed remembering a morning in 2014 when the swollen creek was verging on dangerous. No worries today but there was still enough water for the creek to be beautiful and create ribbon falls from the nearby bluffs.

You’ll pass several places where water pours over the bluffs.

Before heading up and out of the valley back to Ragtown trailhead, I spent some time with one of my favorite waterfalls a short distance upstream from the V-shaped cascade cover photo for this post.

The climb from Spirits Creek wasn’t as difficult as I’d anticipated. I credit the views I continued to think about for making the hike up and out easier. As I got close to the end, I nodded toward the valley and said a soft, “Thank you” for the beauty that I was able to enjoy this day.

Ozarks Camping and Trails on the Cheap

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If you’re looking for a quiet campground in the Ozarks, the Ozone Campground is a little jewel of a location. It’s less than three miles north of the community of Ozone on Hwy 21 north of Clarksville, AR.

The water faucet at the pavilion worked in January when I visited. No guarantees but when I visited, the outlets on the pavilion were on and available to charge your electronics. The pit toilets are convenient, functional, and filled with that refreshing outhouse aroma that says you’re roughing it. 

The Ozone Campground is located right on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). From campsite #5, it’s a short walk downhill to the trail register. From there either direction promises a beautiful hike. You can make it as strenuous as you like by customizing the length and your pace. The OHT is open to foot traffic only.

 After taking a close look at Camp Ozone, named for the CCC Camp that once stood here, I decided the next trip would include camping. Where else can you get a campsite like this in a beautiful location for $3 a night ($1.50 with a senior pass).

Hiker-dog and I did an out-and-back on the OHT down alongside Little Piney Creek for 3.5 miles which gave us a 7 mile hike with a good workout on the climb back up to the campground.

Had a great meal at the Burger Barn a couple of miles south on Hwy 21 in the community of Ozone. A couple was just finishing when I stopped there and another couple was ordering about the time my catfish plate was ready. That seems pretty busy for a small town in the Ozarks of Arkansas.

Vintage Backpacking

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During a recent maintenance camp with the Ozark Highlands Trail Association (OHTA), Duane Woltjen, gave me a Gerry Backpack manufactured in the 1960s. He shared that he used this pack in addition to three others for family adventures with his wife, Judy, and two sons.

Duane is a retired engineer, designer and builder of trails, and a longtime volunteer with the OHTA. During our discussion, he was busily cutting and drilling blazes for use as Ozark Highlands Trail markers.

When I tried that pack on, I decided it should see a few more trail miles. Since this would be a shakedown hike in anticipation of longer hikes to come this fall, I decided to do a simple over-nighter starting at the beginning of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Good friend, Eric Scowden, joined us, us being Hiker-dog and me.

I found the following note in the top compartment while loading the pack.

On the morning we departed from Lake Fort Smith State Park, I asked Eric to snap a photo to share with Duane so he could see the pack in use again.

Our destination was a new campsite location on Jack Creek. To reduce impact close to the creek shoreline, volunteers with the OHTA and Pack Rat Outdoor Center relocated the campsite to a nearby hillside. This site was a short walk from water and offered visual barrier from the trail.

Hiker-dog and home on the trail

While exploring the area, we found another nice campsite farther up the hill that could be an overflow location in case a group is already in the area we used.

There was ample room for several tents. Eric found an ideal spot and built a small fire in the established fire ring.

Evening temperatures made for good campfire conversation and affection time for Hiker-dog. She curled up in leaves close to my tent and remained quiet even when we heard coyotes and owl calls in the distance. Hiker-dog’s around twelve years old but still loves getting out on the trail. A couple of years ago, I wrote the story of our meeting in a little book called Gift From the Ozarks.

Hiker-dog begging for a snack from Eric

We had a great hike and I enjoyed carrying a pack that dated back to the beginning of backpacking’s popularity in the United States. I also found myself thinking of the beauty this pack took Duane’s family to see as he and his wife, Judy, built their family and formed strong bonds of love that serve as an example for others. Thanks to Duane for taking good care of this pack and passing it along to me so I can reflect on the significance of getting outside with family and friends.

Trail Maintenance on the OHT

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With OHTA (Ozark Highlands Trail Association) maintenance days approaching, I wanted to get eyes on my section in case any big trees were down from past rains and wind. Temperatures from the high 60s to 70s prompted me to get out there on Tuesday, September 3.

I knew the trail would be fairly dry but found plenty of small pools for filtering water. I begin with a couple of small bottles, one for my pocket and one for my pack. I refill them before the 4-mile return hike. I use juice bottles because they’re light, durable, and can be used many times before recycling.

I was thankful to learn that the trail between MM(mile marker)5 and MM9 was in pretty good shape with only a few trees down, some that could be cleaned up with my hand saw. Below is an example of what a little hand saw and some time can do. What was rough hiking is now an easy step-over. Later, OHTA volunteer sawyers can cut the big stuff with a chainsaw.

Before
After

A benefit to solo trail maintenance is letting Hiker-dog run free while I work. She’s good about exploring nearby and checking back regularly, especially if I stop for a break. She likes snack time.

Pools in Jack Creek during dry season
Happy Hiker-dog

I made it my little project to keep these four miles open when they were closed due to Lake Fort Smith State Park construction. Once construction was complete around 2008, I formally adopted this significant little section that was ready to hike.

If you like to work in a beautiful environment with great people, consider adopting a section of the OHT and/or get involved in maintenance work days. No special skills are needed as long as you like to walk in the woods, use loppers or hand saw, and drag stuff off of the trail. You’ll get a good workout and have a good time with some great folks!

To get involved, visit the OHTA website linked above and look under the “Get Involved” heading. Then click the “Maintenance Coordinator” hyperlink.

Here are a few photos from earlier maintenance events.

Volunteer Fellowship
Scenic Hwy 23 cleanup
Working with a small saw
Volunteer, Bob, admiring a job well done.

The Ozark Highlands Trail from Arbaugh to Morgan Fields (27-miles)

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Wolf Ridge overlook

Sometimes life gets complicated and backpacking moves to the back burner. There’s plenty to fill the space with trail maintenance, day hiking, finding new trails, playing music, and family obligations. All of these things are important and worthy of attention, but for me to be my best self for others, it’s essential to get out there for a few nights on the trails when possible. 

A couple of longtime friends and I planned a trip but temperatures for the week we had in mind were going to be into the single digits so we decided that might not be a good plan for our first backpacking trip of the winter. Our good friend, Bob, had a scheduling conflict by the time temperatures returned to normal, so it was just Kerry and me for this one.

I spent the night before at Redding Campground, so I’d have a short drive up Morgan Mt. Road on Tuesday when we started out. There was only one other camper there on the other side of the campground, so it felt like I had the place to myself. This is a great little campground without any hookups. There’s a connecting trail to Redding Loop and Spy Rock Spur. 

stove

I fixed a REAL breakfast Tuesday morning with a new stove. I like this stove! It’s like being in a kitchen when compared to my backpacking Esbit Cube stove. 

Esbit stove
Esbit stove and wind shield

We looked at several options. We settled on Arbaugh Trailhead north of Oark hiking west to Morgan Fields for a total of 27 miles. The first 3 miles are Kerry’s adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Since he had family obligations in the fall, a group of his friends gave his section some attention. I wanted him to see the good work we’d done. Kerry has hiked that section 48 times or more over the years between leading hikes and maintaining. But we both agree, it never gets old. 

Kerry looking down into Lynn Hollow and enjoying a well maintained trail.

The trail descends past a new low impact campsite and then to Lynn Hollow crossing. This whole area is beautiful, especially when water is flowing as it was when we walked through. If you ever need a short over-nighter or shakedown trip, camping here and exploring the Lynn Hollow area would be a good option. 

Lunch spot close to MM66

We hiked 11 miles to the west and camped at MM59, Wolf Ridge. This is a popular spot with plenty of tent sites, a well-established fire ring and great view. 

Filtering water at Wolf Ridge

The small stream close by has never been dry, even during the driest of falls. 

Wednesday, we hiked 9 miles and camped at Indian Creek. While passing through the Marinoni Scenic Area, we met the only other backpacker we’d see over our three-days on the trail. 

On Thursday, we hiked seven miles. We were feeling the climbs, even slight, but the open woods and running streams were a pleasure every step of the way.

Our three-days on the trail ended at Morgan Fields Trailhead. We were tired but already looking forward to our next walk on the Ozark Highlands Trail. 

OHT Ozone to Fort Douglas

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Cedar Creek cascade above the pool

The plan was to spend two nights on the Ozark Highlands Trail. After planting shuttle vehicles, we entered from Ozone traveling eastbound. We hiked about four miles and camped close to Little Piney Creek. On day 2, we hiked approximately eight miles and camped at the Cedar Creek pool.

With the limited length of daylight during winter, dinners came early. Backpacking makes you realize how nice it is to read a while and then sleep for around nine hours before rising and walking through the next day. Such a simple agenda is refreshing!

Morning sun on the Little Piney River
Beaver Slide Falls (Slot Rock) is a nice side trip up Lick Creek
Kerry and Bob signing in and glancing at the map.
Bear Skull Falls
There is spacious camping not far from the Cedar Creek pool

Haw Creek Falls is a nice stop along the trail. No one was using the Haw Creek Campground. This is a neat place with picnic tables and fire rings at each site. There are pit toilets too!

Our last day was about seven miles to the Fort Douglas Trailhead, passing through some beautiful country. I caught myself wanting to make the trail last longer by slowing down slightly toward the end.

The last section after Haw Creek Campground is a beautiful walk.

After the drive back to Ozone everyone headed home. It had been at least a couple of years since my last visit to the Ozone Burger Barn, so I stopped in and it was better than ever! I highly recommend the “Vintage Burger” with all the old fashioned toppings. They had a nice fire going outside which made waiting for food a pleasure.

Dr. Dockery’s Cure on the OHT

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Water was beautiful in Jack Creek

I was excited to get out on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT), which runs from Dockery’s Gap west toward Lake Fort Smith (miles 5-9). It was a sunny, cool day, and I was ready to release a little stress while getting some exercise and checking my section for trail maintenance issues. We only saw two backpackers heading east, hoping to complete a thru-hike.

Hiker-dog was glad to hit the OHT. We’ve been working out on the Lake Alma Trail, which never gets old, but new scenery and the longer hills of this section were a welcome change.

Hiker-dog enjoyed the many water breaks on this section of the trail.

I consider trout lilies the official ushers of spring in the Ozarks. Their unique bloom is fun to see along side the trail. I like getting down low to have a look at their beauty.

Sometimes I stop to scribble notes. Today it was a little poem early in our walk. It’s nothing close to being a Nimblewill poem, but I thought of him as these couplets quickly came while standing in the middle of the trail.

Dr. Dockery doesn’t prescribe any pills,
But what she gives will cure your ills.
Take a sunny day and flowing streams
Add eight good miles to fill your dreams
A rest for weary mind and eyes
Wind through oaks will hypnotize
My heart pounds a “thank you,” and lungs pant praise
We walk this peaceful trail today

Lake Fort Smith to Fane Creek on the OHT

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Packed and ready to begin – Approximately 18 pounds with food and water

With cooler temperatures and my recent retirement, I decided to try backpacking the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) during the week. A buddy, Steve, was able to join me and Becca ran the shuttle for us, which saved time getting going on Monday morning.

The trail passes two historic fireplaces and Shepherd Spring. The fire bricks in these fireplaces came from Saint Louis, MO, in the early 1900s. I’ve not seen the spring completely dry, but the waterfall early in the trail only flows during wet seasons. If you have the opportunity, walk the five-mile Shepherd Spring Loop Trail after some strong rains. It’s a beautiful waterfall when it’s running.

Waterfall during wet season

We noticed some recent trail maintenance and caught an Ozark Highlands Trail Association volunteer, Bill, doing some great work close to the Frog Bayou crossing.

Steve visiting with Bill

Hurricane Creek was our destination for the first night. Water was clear, and we easily found sites for our tarps.

Day 2 was sunny and cool. We walked about thirteen miles to Spirits Creek. During the approach toward Spirits Creek, I noticed some muscadines next to the trail. They were perfect. When I bit into one, I was transported to childhood sitting down to breakfast with some of my mother’s muscadine jelly.

Spirits Creek never disappoints! Water was modest but just right for filtering and rock hopping. One of the great camping locations on the OHT! A couple of wild plums were close to a bluff, nowhere near any trees. The plum trees were high above, dropping fruit over the edge. I found one not too damaged and enjoyed it as we walked away from the creek.

Spirits Creek

Walking the historic narrow-gauge railroad route on day 3 was a treat.

Steve recorded any downed trees so OHTA volunteers can return and cut these out in the future. None of the trees made the trail impassable but did slow our progress a little.

Steve recording gps for a tree across the trail.
Rusty history and Indian Pipe flowers along the narrow gauge railroad

We saw several remnants from earlier days along this section of trail. Footings for former bridges can also be seen down below the trail tread. Logging operations used this narrow gauge railroad to harvest timber in the late 1800s.

Wildflowers provided color accents throughout our hike. I enjoyed learning about the Indian Pipe that has a soft pink color and no chlorophyll.

Fane Creek

Once we reached Fane Creek, we walked down the road to meet our shuttle and begin planning our next hike on the OHT.

Bridge over Fane Creek

Celebrating Recovery at Lynn Hollow

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Lynn Hollow Creek

I haven’t posted in several weeks. I’ve been learning about my knees, important joints to all of us who like to walk. While rehabilitating my right knee with exercises, stretches, and my rowing machine, I watched hiking documentaries for inspiration. During this last week, my range of motion increased with less pain, so I decided to try it on a trail.

My first thought was a backpacking trip. I even loaded my pack but knew a few careful dayhikes might be more prudent and avoid further injury.

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Saturday morning at Wolf Pen

Late Friday night, Hiker-dog and I arrived at Wolf Pen Recreation Area on the Mulberry River. The whole place was ours on this cold night with drizzling rain. From the looks of it, the place probably gets heavy use when the river and weather are right for floating. I liked this location because it would put me driving past Oark General Store on the way to Arbaugh Trailhead the next morning.

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Good food and always a treat to visit with locals

One of the best ways to avoid injury is to slow down. A slower pace was my goal on this hike. I found that this approach was a good outlook in other areas, too. I didn’t rush getting up and actually slept in an extra hour. When I arrived at Oark a half-hour before they opened, I relaxed and enjoyed some reading.

It was 9 a.m. by the time I arrived at Arbaugh Trailhead, where we would walk the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) west to the other side of Lynn Hollow. Temperatures hovered just above freezing.

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Small stream that flows into Lynn Creek

I was filled with thanksgiving as I began my careful hike, remembering why I love walking in the woods so much. The constant movement through changing scenery, the air, the sounds! I think Hiker-dog was feeling some thankfulness herself. My knee problem has limited her runs to the Lake Alma Dam in the last few weeks.

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Wearing her hunter orange bandana

Going downhill on leaf-covered rocks was tricky on this wet morning. I took my time and avoided odd angles or sudden movements for my knee’s maiden voyage. Level trail and uphill felt good!

Hiker-dog made lots of return runs as if she noticed my slower pace. She’s pretty stealthy, able to run through the woods, then return without my noticing her at my heels.

I’d planned to stay on the trail, but seeing a cascade in the distance at the Lynn Creek crossing drew me on a careful bushwhack upstream for a look.

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Lynn Hollow Creek

After climbing the OHT on the other side of Lynn Hollow, we enjoyed a pleasant walk with views down into the hollow and the distant hum of the creek. Our wildlife sightings included five turkeys and two deer.

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Looking down into Lynn Hollow

I reached a road crossing and checked my map to see how far we were from several waterfalls that would be fun to see since creeks were running. I decided to stick with the 5-mile out-and-back for today, so we turned around at the road with a little regret. Sometimes we need to practice cutting demands on our body rather always trying to “ramp it up.”

On the return trip, we took the spur trail to a beautiful pool and cascade. This is a special spot, one that made me consider adding Arbaugh to Lynn Hollow in my trail guidebook , but it didn’t make the cut because I was wanting something a little longer in the area. Still, it’s a great little dayhike and well worth the drive.

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Pool at Lynn Hollow

Once at the pool, we crawled under a rock ledge and took a few photos of the incoming cascade. Great little spot for a break!

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Pool from under a rock overhang

The walk back to Arbaugh Trailhead was pure enjoyment, now warm from the walking and with sunshine beaming down. It was 12:15 when we arrived back at the truck and I had lunch on my mind.

It was just a few miles out of my way, but I’d not visited Catalpa Cafe for several months. It’s located where the pavement ends 3-miles east of Oark.

IMG_9761rrRandy, owner, and sole employee, prides himself on gourmet cooking. I had the Catalpa Burger (with homemade buns), crispy onion rings, and a piece of key lime pie for later. The place was busy, but I wasn’t in a hurry, still holding onto my slow-paced mindset. I took Hiker-dog for a walk to a nearby creek crossing while waiting on the burger.

After filling up on great food, we headed home, thankful for joints that work, and a good day on the trail to celebrate recovery.