Tag Archives: Ozark Highlands Trail Association

Day Hike to Cedar Creek on the OHT

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Cedar Creek is a favorite feature of the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). I decided it would be a good first real hike in over a week for my dog who recently had minor eye surgery. She’s been held prisoner by an Elizabethan Collar for 24-hours a day for the last full week. Elizabethan Collar seems overly poetic for something so inconvenient.

Monday morning I unceremoniously removed the plastic collar and gave Hiker-dog her freedom. Once we got on the trail, she was one happy dog!

Since this is a hike I plan to use in the second edition of Five Star Trails: The Ozarks, I took my time and made notes during the drive out to Rosetta Trailhead. I’ve driven to this trailhead before, but writing directions that others can follow requires thought and decisions about which details to include.

I enjoyed the whole walk down to the creek while watching Hiker-dog dart through the woods and occasionally following close by. We spent some time at Hobo Falls and Cedar Creek before hammering our way back to the trailhead.

Story has it that Hobo Falls picked up the name because remnants of a hobo camp were found nearby. Next time I visit, I plan to be a hobo and spend a couple of nights in the area. I noticed a nearby cave that would make an easy shelter as long as a critter hasn’t already claimed it.

The next few photos are from 2016 when a great group of trail friends camped here. Hiker-dog and I had been together for a couple of years by that time. She’s at least 12 years old now but still going strong.

The left and center photo below are Hiker-dog in 2016 when she was around three years old. The photo on the right is gray bearded Hiker-dog in 2025.

Vintage Backpacking

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During a recent maintenance camp with the Ozark Highlands Trail Association (OHTA), Duane Woltjen, gave me a Gerry Backpack manufactured in the 1960s. He shared that he used this pack in addition to three others for family adventures with his wife, Judy, and two sons.

Duane is a retired engineer, designer and builder of trails, and a longtime volunteer with the OHTA. During our discussion, he was busily cutting and drilling blazes for use as Ozark Highlands Trail markers.

When I tried that pack on, I decided it should see a few more trail miles. Since this would be a shakedown hike in anticipation of longer hikes to come this fall, I decided to do a simple over-nighter starting at the beginning of the Ozark Highlands Trail. Good friend, Eric Scowden, joined us, us being Hiker-dog and me.

I found the following note in the top compartment while loading the pack.

On the morning we departed from Lake Fort Smith State Park, I asked Eric to snap a photo to share with Duane so he could see the pack in use again.

Our destination was a new campsite location on Jack Creek. To reduce impact close to the creek shoreline, volunteers with the OHTA and Pack Rat Outdoor Center relocated the campsite to a nearby hillside. This site was a short walk from water and offered visual barrier from the trail.

Hiker-dog and home on the trail

While exploring the area, we found another nice campsite farther up the hill that could be an overflow location in case a group is already in the area we used.

There was ample room for several tents. Eric found an ideal spot and built a small fire in the established fire ring.

Evening temperatures made for good campfire conversation and affection time for Hiker-dog. She curled up in leaves close to my tent and remained quiet even when we heard coyotes and owl calls in the distance. Hiker-dog’s around twelve years old but still loves getting out on the trail. A couple of years ago, I wrote the story of our meeting in a little book called Gift From the Ozarks.

Hiker-dog begging for a snack from Eric

We had a great hike and I enjoyed carrying a pack that dated back to the beginning of backpacking’s popularity in the United States. I also found myself thinking of the beauty this pack took Duane’s family to see as he and his wife, Judy, built their family and formed strong bonds of love that serve as an example for others. Thanks to Duane for taking good care of this pack and passing it along to me so I can reflect on the significance of getting outside with family and friends.

Trail Maintenance on the OHT

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With OHTA (Ozark Highlands Trail Association) maintenance days approaching, I wanted to get eyes on my section in case any big trees were down from past rains and wind. Temperatures from the high 60s to 70s prompted me to get out there on Tuesday, September 3.

I knew the trail would be fairly dry but found plenty of small pools for filtering water. I begin with a couple of small bottles, one for my pocket and one for my pack. I refill them before the 4-mile return hike. I use juice bottles because they’re light, durable, and can be used many times before recycling.

I was thankful to learn that the trail between MM(mile marker)5 and MM9 was in pretty good shape with only a few trees down, some that could be cleaned up with my hand saw. Below is an example of what a little hand saw and some time can do. What was rough hiking is now an easy step-over. Later, OHTA volunteer sawyers can cut the big stuff with a chainsaw.

Before
After

A benefit to solo trail maintenance is letting Hiker-dog run free while I work. She’s good about exploring nearby and checking back regularly, especially if I stop for a break. She likes snack time.

Pools in Jack Creek during dry season
Happy Hiker-dog

I made it my little project to keep these four miles open when they were closed due to Lake Fort Smith State Park construction. Once construction was complete around 2008, I formally adopted this significant little section that was ready to hike.

If you like to work in a beautiful environment with great people, consider adopting a section of the OHT and/or get involved in maintenance work days. No special skills are needed as long as you like to walk in the woods, use loppers or hand saw, and drag stuff off of the trail. You’ll get a good workout and have a good time with some great folks!

To get involved, visit the OHTA website linked above and look under the “Get Involved” heading. Then click the “Maintenance Coordinator” hyperlink.

Here are a few photos from earlier maintenance events.

Volunteer Fellowship
Scenic Hwy 23 cleanup
Working with a small saw
Volunteer, Bob, admiring a job well done.

Backpacking Preparation 2: Trails Renewed

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Chris enjoying the view along White Rock Mountain Loop

Trail maintenance in the Ozarks is difficult, especially after a wet summer. In September, volunteers begin clearing trails for hiking and backpacking season. The work is hard and often done in the heat. This post sings the praises of volunteers with the Ozark Highlands Trail Association. They view trail maintenance as part of backpacking preparation, and love of the Ozarks!

Small pool on White Rock Creek

Some maintainers carry water filters since, even when conditions are dry, pockets of water might be found in reliable creeks. White Rock Creek pictured above flows most of the year, but on this trip, water trickled between pools.

Lunch break

Here’s a video clip showing the work done with hedge trimmers and weed eaters.

Clearing vegetation with a hedge trimmer head on a weedeater.

Trail work is slow but satisfying.

Volunteers enjoy walking back to vehicles on newly opened trail.

The Shores Lake/White Rock Loop is one of the nation’s great backpacking loop trails and is open, so get out and enjoy fresh trail maintenance! While you’re out there, give the trail some love by leaving no trace of your passing. If you come across someone working on a trail, give them a word of thanks and consider joining them in the future. It will increase your appreciation for all the trails you walk.

White Rock Mountain

Dr. Dockery’s Cure on the OHT

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Water was beautiful in Jack Creek

I was excited to get out on my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT), which runs from Dockery’s Gap west toward Lake Fort Smith (miles 5-9). It was a sunny, cool day, and I was ready to release a little stress while getting some exercise and checking my section for trail maintenance issues. We only saw two backpackers heading east, hoping to complete a thru-hike.

Hiker-dog was glad to hit the OHT. We’ve been working out on the Lake Alma Trail, which never gets old, but new scenery and the longer hills of this section were a welcome change.

Hiker-dog enjoyed the many water breaks on this section of the trail.

I consider trout lilies the official ushers of spring in the Ozarks. Their unique bloom is fun to see along side the trail. I like getting down low to have a look at their beauty.

Sometimes I stop to scribble notes. Today it was a little poem early in our walk. It’s nothing close to being a Nimblewill poem, but I thought of him as these couplets quickly came while standing in the middle of the trail.

Dr. Dockery doesn’t prescribe any pills,
But what she gives will cure your ills.
Take a sunny day and flowing streams
Add eight good miles to fill your dreams
A rest for weary mind and eyes
Wind through oaks will hypnotize
My heart pounds a “thank you,” and lungs pant praise
We walk this peaceful trail today

Lake Fort Smith to Fane Creek on the OHT

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Packed and ready to begin – Approximately 18 pounds with food and water

With cooler temperatures and my recent retirement, I decided to try backpacking the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT) during the week. A buddy, Steve, was able to join me and Becca ran the shuttle for us, which saved time getting going on Monday morning.

The trail passes two historic fireplaces and Shepherd Spring. The fire bricks in these fireplaces came from Saint Louis, MO, in the early 1900s. I’ve not seen the spring completely dry, but the waterfall early in the trail only flows during wet seasons. If you have the opportunity, walk the five-mile Shepherd Spring Loop Trail after some strong rains. It’s a beautiful waterfall when it’s running.

Waterfall during wet season

We noticed some recent trail maintenance and caught an Ozark Highlands Trail Association volunteer, Bill, doing some great work close to the Frog Bayou crossing.

Steve visiting with Bill

Hurricane Creek was our destination for the first night. Water was clear, and we easily found sites for our tarps.

Day 2 was sunny and cool. We walked about thirteen miles to Spirits Creek. During the approach toward Spirits Creek, I noticed some muscadines next to the trail. They were perfect. When I bit into one, I was transported to childhood sitting down to breakfast with some of my mother’s muscadine jelly.

Spirits Creek never disappoints! Water was modest but just right for filtering and rock hopping. One of the great camping locations on the OHT! A couple of wild plums were close to a bluff, nowhere near any trees. The plum trees were high above, dropping fruit over the edge. I found one not too damaged and enjoyed it as we walked away from the creek.

Spirits Creek

Walking the historic narrow-gauge railroad route on day 3 was a treat.

Steve recorded any downed trees so OHTA volunteers can return and cut these out in the future. None of the trees made the trail impassable but did slow our progress a little.

Steve recording gps for a tree across the trail.
Rusty history and Indian Pipe flowers along the narrow gauge railroad

We saw several remnants from earlier days along this section of trail. Footings for former bridges can also be seen down below the trail tread. Logging operations used this narrow gauge railroad to harvest timber in the late 1800s.

Wildflowers provided color accents throughout our hike. I enjoyed learning about the Indian Pipe that has a soft pink color and no chlorophyll.

Fane Creek

Once we reached Fane Creek, we walked down the road to meet our shuttle and begin planning our next hike on the OHT.

Bridge over Fane Creek

Lower Base Weight and a New Route to Explore

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My Zpacks backpack fully loaded

For a recent mild-weather over-nighter, my pack base weight came in at 10.5 pounds. Base weight doesn’t include food and water. I was probably around 14 pounds with water and food. Steve recently upgraded his backpack to a Gossamer Gear, and his base weight is similar, so we were both traveling light.

Now, if I could find better ways to pack food that weighs almost nothing. I use powdered soups as a base with dehydrated veggies and meat added. The energy bars, GORP add more weight. Please email or comment if you have ultra-light food ideas!

Below are a few photos from the recent backpacking trip with a little descriptive information. The purpose of our trip was to try out a route recently scouted by Steven Parker, assisted by Chris Adams and me. Steven plans to present more information about this route at the Ozark Highlands Trail Association meeting in October. Stay tuned because, if you like a challenge, this might be a route you’ll want to add to future itineraries.

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This rock garden bluff is jaw-dropping beautiful.

Not a scenic photo, but we found it interesting. Our thought was that this is bear scat. Anyone else want to weigh in?

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bear scat

Scale is deceptive since I took this photo from downstream, but the waterfall is probably 10-12 feet.

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Afternoon nap for Hiker-dog

Below was my break time view. You can’t beat fresh air, blue skies, and the shade of a tree canopy for recharging your batteries!

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This waterfall was a special treat. Steven will share more about this area at the October OHTA meeting.

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The photo doesn’t capture it, but splashes of color from a variety of wildflowers lifted our spirits when the feet felt weary.

IMG_5612rWe were unsure about the following bloom or early plan growth resembling a flower. Does anyone have an idea about what this is? If so, I’ll update this post. The stalk reminds us of a Devils Walking Stick, but we’re not sure. (May 10 update – Thanks to reader, Miranda Kohout for sharing that this is the early growth of a hickory tree.)

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unidentified plant (8/10/20 update- It’s a hickory tree in the making)

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Native honeysuckle pointed out by Steven

Hopefully, we’ll have some more cool weather for Ozarks exploring

The efforts to lighten our loads continue because the lighter the pack, the farther we’ll travel.

I’m looking forward to future trips on this same route, especially as it becomes more clearly defined. It will be fun to see Steven share specifics in October!

Hiker-dog, trail volunteer and nighttime guide

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On November 9, there will be trail run across my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT), and it had been a while since I walked it. Because of schedules, I had to check it during the evening. I didn’t realize that I’d be adding to my list of positive Hiker-dog attributes – more on that in a moment.

Water was flowing from recent rains, and colors were beginning to change. Temperatures began in the lower 40s and dipped into the upper 30s by the time I finished. Woohoo! It finally feels like fall!

Stihl handsawI stopped and used my small handsaw on a few limbs and trees across the trail. Love that little saw and am amazed at what it will cut. My task on this evening was to look for trees that might need to be cut out by an expert sawyer, so I stopped to set GPS waypoints and make quick notes where future cuts might be required.

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I had to pause at creek crossings for a photo but only spent a few seconds at each. My adopted section runs along the ridge on the north side of  Jack Creek. It crosses several seasonal streams that flow into Jack Creek, and each one is worthy of a lunch break when water is flowing.

By the time we reached the camp spot about 4 miles from Dochery Gap, Jack Creek was powerful, having picked up steam from all those little streams I’d been crossing.

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Jack Creek

After giving Hiker-dog a snack, we headed back toward the truck, four miles away. I stuck my headlamp in my top pocket for later.

IMG_8802rrHiker-dog provided lots of entertainment on the dark portion of our hike. Two reflective eyes kept popping up out ahead of me as she turned to be sure I was following. These eyes helped me stay on the trail a couple of times, especially when I crossed a creek and then wasn’t sure which way the path went afterward. Sure enough, eyes could be seen staring at me as if wondering what I was waiting for. I took note that any future hikes after dark should include Hiker-dog and she added to her list of positive attributes as a trail partner.

If you love the OHT, consider volunteering or adopting a section to do light maintenance and monitor. It’s a great way to contribute to keeping the trail open, and it’s fun! Visit Ozark Highlands Trail Association website under “Maintenance” to learn more.

If you’d like to meet some nice folks, join us for the Hare Mountain Hike-in, a fall tradition that dates back to the 1980s.

HARE MOUNTAIN! NOVEMBER 2-3, 2019 “CELEBRATE THE OHT”. Hike in anytime Saturday from Morgan Field (shorter, but steeper) or from Cherry Bend TH. It’s pot luck, so bring something to share with your fellow hikers. Bring your kids or grandkids. Enjoy the campfire and camp for the night. Or hike back down Saturday after eating. Most people camp and hike out Sunday. Bring water. For more information call Bob or Dana 479-595-5461 or 479-263-7479. DON’T MISS THIS TRADITIONAL HIKE-IN CAMPOUT ON THE TRAIL’S HIGHEST POINT!

 

 

Trail Maintenance Cure

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Todd found a nice spot for a break.

I was feeling under the weather but still wanted to take part in a trail maintenance base camp sponsored by the Ozark Highlands Trail Association. I was tempted to cancel but knew my body needed to be outside. What I didn’t realize was that the combination of trail work, fellowship with some good folks, and sleeping in the night air of the Ozarks would be the cure I needed. By the end of the trip, I was feeling much better.

We worked on the Buffalo River Trail section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. I last hiked this section of trail in January of 2014, so it was a treat to see again and brought back memories of the starving black dog that followed us for 42 miles before arriving at Tyler Bend. As I walked this section in 2014, I avoided becoming attached to that dog because I doubted that she would survive. She did survive and became a great trail friend and training partner.

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Hiker-dog on the Ozark Highlands Trail

To read Hiker-dog’s story: Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat – Hiking the OHT and A New Trail Partner

Morgan Mountain Quick Trip: Beauty and a Leave No Trace Reminder

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Beginning

Hiker-dog and I needed a camping trip, something quick and close. We drove 40 miles and parked at Morgan Fields Trailhead as the sun was dropping low on Friday evening. We hiked the Ozark Highlands Trail west up Hare Mountain. After pausing at the campsite on top of the mountain, we started back down the mountain with memories of the many friends who’ve gathered around that fire ring each October over the years. 

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The view at mile 1 up Hare Mountain

Since the trail was dry, I gave Hiker-dog some water in my palm, and she licked it dry. It was easier going downhill and cooler, too. I knew to expect some downed trees and noted locations so the Ozark Highlands Trail Association chainsaw pros can cut them out before the October Hare Mountain Hike-In. A lot of maintenance happens in September in preparation for backpacker traffic through the fall, winter, and spring. If you hike in the summer, what we consider the off-season, expect more vegetation and a few downed trees. 

Lightening bugs sparkled and danced through the air. Hiker-dog got excited when she saw a trail sign in the distance. Before I got to the road, she was down the trail wanting to keep going. I said, “This way,” and she returned to the road. 

On the short road walk back to the truck, I turned off my headlamp thinking I’d walk in the dark. There wasn’t a moon yet, and after a few moments of pitch-black walking, I realize the light was necessary. When we arrived back at the truck, I looked up at a light-pollution-free star-filled sky.

After I popped up the camper top, Hiker-dog surprised me by jumping in. She curled up on the floor and sent me a side glance that said, “I’ll just sleep here for the night.” She was easy to coax into her crate at the door and was silent for the night as usual.

After checking for ticks, and finding a few still crawling, I began to think about the next day’s schedule. It was pretty simple. Rise early, do an out-and-back east to Herrods Creek, then get a turkey sandwich at Turner Bend Store.  

Night temperatures dipped into the mid-sixties. The 12-volt roof fan pulled cool air across the sleeping mats, so I slept well and even turned the fan off around midnight.

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Hiker-dog’s crate made a nice camp table.

We woke early and, after coffee and tasty breakfast, hit the trail by 6:00.

Anyone who’s hiked during the summer knows the pleasure that spiderwebs add to the experience. Several years ago, I started adopting a more zen-like view of spiderwebs and letting them wrap across my face with less frustration. I had plenty of “zen-like” practice on this hike. 

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Cool morning temperatures made for nice walking. Morning light adds beauty to the most ordinary scenes. 

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Rotting log in the morning light

I found myself noticing small things. A snail shell next to the trail caught my eye. Love the beautiful patterns of nature!

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For at least a mile, ox-eyes (false sunflower) were constant companions along the trail.

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I inspected these guys a little more closely to appreciate their beauty from all sides.

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Pretty from all sides!

The ox-eye and ironweed attracted butterflies. I enjoyed watching this one for a few seconds.

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After about three miles, we reached Harrods Creek, a dry crossing right now. Water pockets were up stream, and Hiker-dog found a good spot for a satisfying drink.

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Trail crossing at Harrods Creek

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On our way back to Morgan Fields Trailhead, I planned to pick up some trash we passed going in. I had a small plastic shopping bag, but wished for a bigger bag when I realized how much was there.

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From the looks of it, poor planning was the culprit. There was a lot of unnecessary packaging. The markings on a can of insect spray made me wonder if a bear had bitten into it. Hole patterns were similar on both sides.

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These weren’t Leave No Trace (LNT) folks! I think of the seven LNT principles as a pass/fail assessment. If you don’t follow just one principle, damage is done. What we saw here represented at least two principles:
#1 Plan Ahead and Prepare – NO
#3 Dispose of Waste Properly – NO

It’s sad to see trash left on the trail, but it feels good to leave the trail better than you find it. Hiker-dog seemed pleased with the clean spot we left behind. 

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I regret to report that we violated the fourth LNT principle (leave what you find) because we carried a few ticks out of the woods. Maybe we can be forgiven since they hitched a ride with us against our will.