Hiker-dog’s Adoption Trail

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The view over a landslide site next to Richland Creek Wilderness Area.

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In January of 2014, Bob and I met a black Lab close to mile 138 on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). If you want to know that story, skim this little book I wrote for children at my school, Gift From the Ozarks.

Since joining our family, Hiker-dog has covered most of the OHT but still lacked the miles from Fairview Trailhead on Hwy 7, east to where we found her. Hiking buddy, Eric, is working his way through the OHT and needed this section. Bob completed our group, being the first to meet Hiker-dog a few years ago.

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Eric and I drove to Richland Creek Campground to leave my truck, then shuttle back to Fairview to meet Bob. Hiker-dog enjoyed the ride and seemed to anticipate some good hiking as we drove next to the Richland Creek Wilderness Area.

We laughed at how hyper she was in camp. I took her on a short out-and-back walk in an attempt to calm her down but she needed more, and there hadn’t been time that day with all the shuttle driving. Since others were camping nearby, I put Hiker-dog’s mat inside the tent and was thankful when she curled up and slept all night.

IMG_3689rrSaturday’s hike was pleasant as we crossed old oak bore and ice damage saying a word of thanks for trail volunteers who keep this section passable. The canopy improves after a couple of miles, and the beauty of the Ozarks is revealed as you pass several creeks. As we stopped for lunch, two of the only other backpackers we would meet stopped for a short visit.IMG_3706rrI’ve hiked through the remnants of the CCC Camp before but never spent the night. This was a treat, and water access was easy. We enjoyed exploring before selecting tent sites.IMG_3708rr

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Someone was impatient with tent setup and curled up for a short nap.

After supper, we played with our cameras while warming by a fast burning cedar wood fire. Popping cinders left orange streaks and sometimes caused alarm when they landed on a leg or foot. IMG_3731rrWe experimented with some light painting to bring out the foreground and trees. IMG_3745rrLots of cinder streamers fly during 15-second exposures. Perhaps the ghostly remnants from the CCC structures made us wish for visitors from the past. Looks like some spirits stopped by as we sat by the fire. IMG_3742rrIMG_3739rrEric experimented with some light writing. Who would think three grown men could be so entertained by a couple of small cameras and headlamps!IMG_3733rrThe next morning, we explored a bluff area next to the camp. The open woods surrounding the CCC Camp were a joy for a well-rested Hiker-dog. IMG_3767rrIMG_3762rr

We came to the place we first met Hiker-dog close to mile 138 (now near 137 with route changes on the OHT). A deer from the previous day’s hunt was lying about fifty yards away, and Hiker-dog quickly found what the hunter could not. I thought about Hiker-dog’s condition just under four years ago and what rich meals this deer would have provided.IMG_3806rrIMG_3822rrWe came across our backpacking friends from the previous day and had a nice lunch as Hiker-dog fought the desire for a nap in the warm sunshine.IMG_3831rrHiking along Falling Water Creek was a pleasure until we came to an arrow indicating the bypass up and over the site of an old landslide. We huffed and puffed along the steep hillside, but the bluff above provided scenic views into the Richland Creek Wilderness Area. From our thru-hike a few years ago, I didn’t remember this section’s steepness. It was probably blocked from my memory because of the pain.

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Thanks to Eric for catching Hiker-dog and me on the reroute 

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One of many views from the bluff.

As we arrived at Richland Creek Campground to complete our 20-mile trek, Hiker-dog was nowhere to be seen. I heard children’s voices next to the creek and thought she might have been drawn to the sound, but she popped out of the woods a few minutes later, still strong and ready for more. I thought about how fortunate we both were to cross paths at mile 137 of what would become our adoption trail on that cold January day.

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Hiker taking a break on Spy Rock, Hare Mountain.

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Enjoying fall colors on the Lake Alma Trail.

“Progressive Dinner” in the Ozarks – Hare Mt. Hike-In

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The Hare Mountain campfire felt good this year.

This fall’s first predicted freeze didn’t discourage hikers from gathering on Hare Mountain for the annual potluck meal and campfire fellowship that dates back to the 1980s. We were joined by fifteen hikers with a youth group from Oklahoma, so Hare Mountain’s population was up from zero to approximately fifty.

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Youth group from Oklahoma

I noticed the Oklahoma leaders discussing a cracked water jug and took pleasure in sharing extra water I’d carried in. I thought back to Joe who camped next to us on the John Muir Trail and gave me his Sawyer filter pouch when mine failed. It’s fun to play a small role in making trail magic happen for someone else. I enjoyed telling the Oklahoma leader that this jug contained Alma City water which won the Arkansas taste test in recent years.

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progressive dinner

The weather was beautiful for this year’s hike-in, and we were without last year’s forest fire down below the mountain. As food warmed on the fire, a “progressive dinner” ensued as more hikers (and food) made the trek up the mountain. 

It was a great time atop Hare Mountain this year!

OzarkMountainHiker in Arkansas Life

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Johnny Carroll Sain included an excerpt from my OHT thru-hike post in his wonderful article about long trails in Arkansas. Made me proud and he was a pleasure to work with! A link to the article is below.
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You can find Johnny Sain’s entire article plus my recommended hikes at this Arkansas Life link: Over the River and Through the Woods

Sauntering in the Ozarks

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Hiker-dog sauntering across a creek.

Hiking – I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains – not hike! ~ John Muir 

Today was about checking my 4-mile adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail.  I’d recently read the above John Muir quote and planned to try a little sauntering. IMG_3109rrA drizzling rain wouldn’t interfere with maintenance plans since I was only doing light hand sawing and clearing. Almost every creek had pockets of water and about the time I was thinking this would be a great weekend for camping, I came upon a hammock. John, a thru-hiker I’d meet on my hike out in a few hours, was sleeping in during the light rain. I was proud that Hiker-dog ignored the hammock and continued across Jack Creek on the trail.

IMG_3126rrI purposefully stopped every few minutes to look and enjoy these woods I’ve passed through many times. This was my nod to Mr. Muir in my effort to “saunter.” Slowing down and pausing occasionally allowed me to notice things I’d typically miss like small fungi on a decaying log.

Two small mushrooms next to the trail glistened with moisture.

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IMG_3100rrAfter scouting the trail and beginning my return trip, I came across muscadines hanging right over the trail I hadn’t noticed my first time through. I picked a few and enjoyed their sweet centers and tart chewy skins as I walked along remembering my mother’s muscadine jelly on toast. The rain had stopped and I was now sauntering along with a hand full of muscadines and blueberry cookies. A wonderful feast!

Spider webs covering greenery held water droplets that sparkled like diamonds next to the trail.

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Hiker-dog was elated to be on the trail for six hours. She enjoyed exploring rocky crags above the trail and staying wet from running through underbrush.

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Something fascinating in every pile of rocks. 

…these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them. ~ John Muir

I enjoyed my day of sauntering and a little trail maintenance, too.  I can relate to Muir’s comment about walking through the mountains with an attitude of reverence. I ended this day with a mind full of thankfulness.  Thankful for the gifts of sight, sound, smell, and especially taste. Time for some muscadine jelly! 

Ozarks at Large Radio Interview

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I never thought to put “radio interview” on my bucket list, but now I can add it and check it off. Kyle Kellams with KUAF did a good job of making me feel at ease. It was fun to share a few thoughts about the challenges and joys of thru-hiking.

Here’s a link to the 10-minute interview that aired today: Ozarks at Large KUAF

Hare Mountain Hike-In

Spread the word!

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Here’s a post from last year’s Hare Mountain Hike-In. Maybe you’ll make this an annual tradition at the highest point on the Ozark Highlands Trail.

Below is a link to this year’s poster as a pdf in case you’d like to print or share on social media.

Hare Mountain Hike-In poster 1117 

Sharing the Trails at Devil’s Den State Park

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Small falls upstream from Marinoni Falls on the OHT

I’m looking forward to sharing a thru-hike of the Ozark Highlands Trail in photos and stories on Saturday, February 25, at 3:45. The program will be in the pavilion at Devil’s Den State Park. I’ll also share some photos from Five Star Trails: The Ozarks. If you’re in the area, come out and make a day…or weekend of it. Great camping and trails at Devil’s Den!

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Microsoft Word - 2017 Arkansas Trails Symposium Schedule

My Little Piece of the OHT

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Jack Creek at the east end of my adopted section.

Today we hiked about eight miles out and back to check my adopted section of the Ozark Highlands Trail. It runs four miles following the creek drainage from Dockery Gap Trailhead west to the campsite on Jack Creek.

img_9367rrI was surprised to see a brand new trailhead kiosk. At some time in the past, I emailed a request for a kiosk here since the Dockery Gap Trailhead served as the main entrance point during construction of the Lake Fort Smith State Park. I hope it lasts and is left alone.

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While we’re on the subject of signage, the new mile markers look good, showing miles from both directions. I like the OHT logo, too!

Temperatures were in the low 60s, unusual for this time of year. We (Hiker-dog and I) saw a total of 8 hikers during the day. I met a couple of backpackers from Oklahoma finishing up as we started out. They gave me a good report on trail conditions. Another backpacker crossed the road heading east as I arrived and three more hikers were coming out of the Jack Creek drainage as I was going down.

Close to the Jack Creek campsite, we met a couple from Michigan, hiking from Lake Fort Smith State Park to Big Piney. I enjoyed visiting with them, and they seemed to enjoy Hiker-dog’s enthusiastic attention. I was impressed that they traveled from Michigan specifically to do the OHT. They looked prepared and were hiking strong, so I have no doubt that they’ll have a good trip.

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Kyle and Mary from Michigan

Crossing one of the drainages I was reminded of the power of nature. A set of large boulders I’ve passed many times had been rearranged by flooded creeks sometime since my last visit.

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This lone patch of Daffodils hinted at earlier residents a short distance from the trail. I’d never noticed domesticated flowers on my section of the OHT before.

img_9379rrThe always-reliable, “Rusty Spring” was flowing as usual. Hiker-dog passed it by, so I followed her example and fought the urge to take a sip.

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Jack Creek at the west end of my adopted section.

As I filtered water from Jack Creek, Hiker-dog took a dip and then went upstream to introduce herself to the couple from Michigan. I came along later and met them.

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Ecstasy!

On this warm day, Hiker-dog went for water often. She takes great delight in lowering herself into a pool of water, shaking off and then dipping again.

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The shake.

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A cool dog…

After her cooling swim, Hiker is ready to run. I didn’t jump into the creek, but the water was refreshing to drink. I looked forward to walking the four miles back to the trailhead, enjoying a freshly cleared trail from our trip out. Far from being a chore, maintaining my little piece of the OHT is a joy!

If you’re in the area, come to the Arkansas Trails Symposium at Devil’s Den State Park on February 25. I’ll share my Ozark Highlands Trail thru-hike in photos and stories at 3:45 p.m. and have Five Star Trails: The Ozarks on hand for signing afterward.

Microsoft Word - 2017 Arkansas Trails Symposium Schedule

Scott’s Ozark Highlands Trail

I enjoyed viewing this 21-minute video by my friend, Scott Branyon. It’s a record of his hike from Lake Fort Smith State Park to Woolum. I was proud to be on Scott’s first backpacking trip on the Ozark Highlands Trail (OHT). Recently, I witnessed his completion of the 165-miles.

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Completing this trail creates a sense of ownership, so the OHT is now Scott’s trail. Congratulations to my friend on his accomplishment. Hiker-dog enjoyed accompanying Scott on a couple of his trips and hopes to complete her OHT soon.

A new section of the OHT for Hiker-dog: Hurricane Creek Wilderness

img_8431rrDecember 29: This trek through the Hurricane Creek Wilderness Area would bring Hiker-dog closer to completing the Ozark Highlands Trail. It was also the final section needed for one of our group to finish the traditional 165-miles of the OHT. img_8371rrOne vehicle approached the bridge as we crossed, but the driver stopped and gave us a friendly wave as we continued across the one-lane bridge.img_8390rrThe winter woods were open and clear under sunny skies. img_8405rrEric and Hiker-dog paused to take in the views at the slow running Hurricane Creek. The water was as clear and the bottom of the creek was as slippery as I remembered. Even Hiker-dog’s four paws slipped a time or two. img_8433rrBob and Eric did some rock hopping to cross dry. Scott, Hiker-dog, and I all chose to wade the creek. img_8442rrIt looked like Scott found a deep spot in the creek, but we all made it across dry and ready to move on up the trail.  img_8475rrWinter leaf-off is a good time to view Natural Bridge perched at the top of bluffs on the west side of Hurricane Creek. img_8493rrThanks to Eric for noticing the color reflecting upstream. We took turns photographing the scene with my camera since Eric’s camera batteries were drained. img_8507rrHiker seemed to enjoy showing off by hopping rocks as the sun continued to move lower in the sky. img_8512rrWe were in our tents by 7 p.m., lulled to sleep by the gentle sounds of Hurricane Creek below our campsite. Coyotes let loose a chorus of howls late in the night, but I find their distant cries relaxing and part of the beauty of nighttime in the Ozarks. Temperatures got down to the mid-20s.

img_8594rrAround midnight, I answered nature’s call and enjoyed looking at the starry sky for a moment before returning to my tent. I discovered Hiker-dog curled up on my down blanket rather than her Thermarest sleeping pad. When she felt my feet under the quilt, she moved back to her bed, sorry that I didn’t see the need for her to have a down bed.

December 30: After passing through beautiful woods along the Hurricane Creek (and doing some pretty intense climbing) we dropped back down to creek level and a favorite historical chimney. img_8560rrAfter the east crossing of Hurricane Creek, we passed the Highwater Bypass and continued toward Chancel and our campsite at a small creek that eventually feeds into Buck Brn Creek.

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no-name creek

This little creek without a name is imprinted on my memory. On one of my early hikes through the Hurricane Creek area, a friend ran out of water after we passed this creek and suffered heat exhaustion. He made it out but was pretty sick for a couple of days. I always check my water carefully when passing this creek just prior to mile 115.

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Scott filtering water at our second campsite

We found excellent water at our second campsite located between mile 119 and 120. Another nameless creek, it always seems to have water.

All meals seemed to taste better on that second night, maybe because of the more than nine hilly miles we’d hiked. Bob commented that Hiker was an 8-mile dog because she slept soundly as we ate. She bounced back strong the next morning.

December 31: The next morning we walked through beautiful boulder fields making our way toward Chancel junction.

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Using Hiker to put the size of boulders in perspective

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Chancel junction

Coming down into the Buck Brn Creek was a treat visually, but it meant a lot of climbing on the other side as we made our way toward Fairview Trailhead. img_8647rrBob reminded me of the arched shape of the bridge below Forest Road 1209A. I dropped down for a few pictures before rejoining the group on the trail and the big climb toward Fairview. img_8650rrimg_8656rrAfter lots of huffing and puffing, we arrived at the trip’s end. Celebrations were in order as this was the last section Scott needed to complete 165-mile of the OHT. We were proud of his accomplishment.

We’re also looking forward to Hiker-dog’s completion of the OHT. I think the thru-hike patch will look good on her pack, but the real reward is good times spent with good people exploring the Ozarks!img_8420rr

If you’d like to read the story of how Hiker-dog first joined us on the trail in 2014: Walk, Eat, Sleep, Repeat – Fairview to Tyler Bend and a New Hiking Partner